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Junior Area

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Description

Boulder cluster past the ridge.

Access issues inherited from Mutton Bird

Respect the rock and natural environment you are climbing in. Clean your rubbish up and give tick marks and caked chalk a good scrubbing.

Ethic inherited from Mutton Bird

Clean tick marks and caked chalk. Clean up your rubbish. No chipping, gluing or bolting.

Routes

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Grade Route

Stand start and up edges trending left on the orange slab

FA: Ron Master, 2004

Stand start with the jug, straight up. For extra style use only the big jug to topout directly.

Option to traverse right on good holds.

FA: Jim Nevin, 1986

Start as 'The Big Hole' and traverse right on jugs to top out.

FA: Unknown

Sit start on the obvious slopey feature with a left heel. Tricky moves up and right to gain the jugs. https://youtu.be/iA9oNywPd7U?t=121

Sit start matching on rail. Big move to the lip and top out.

Sit start with undercling jug. Up the easy slab. Good bit of fun.

Fantastic easier classic. Sit start low in scoops under the roof and move straight out of the steep with underclings and flowy sequences. Top out up the slab.

Great value.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNw-xEvGhSQ

FA: Shania Peters, 2020

Sit start under the obvious bulge and slap up to a tricky top. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J99eKvvY9oU

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start then up to easy jugs.

Sit start on the diagonal hold on the right. Up on sharp but positive holds trending left. Stand start on the left (VB) done by J Nevin in the early 2000s

https://youtu.be/iA9oNywPd7U?t=18

Sit start as for ‘Crystal Cuts’ on the diagonal slot. Avoid going left to the good edges and instead Come up the vague right arete with small crimps. Stand start done by R Master in 2004.

FA: Michael Taran, Jun 2021

Left hand pocket, right hand undercling, launch.

Stand start on the undercling, smear feet and bust up to the flakes. Tricky part is the start.

As for Underclings but instead of topping out to the right, do a long move to the left arete and finish up the middle of the boulder.

Sit start on low hold then up the jugs/underclings.

FA: 2001

Juggy sit start. Fun one for the kids.

Sit start with jugs then press up for the lip. Can add a couple of moves starting further right...

Sit start, then tricky moves to gain the high break (avoid dabbing the rocks to the left). Stand done by J Nevin in the early 2000s

Start left hand on the arete and right hand on top jug. Traverse along the crackline, using top jugs, to a top out on the right.

FA: Jan-Michael Vincent

Sit start with jugs. Avoid rocks underneath. A bit awkward. Top out on the slab

Sit start on the low break. Up and right-ish. Easy enough... Vdunno.

Sit start. Follow the crack system up. Dodgy landing but the moves aren't too hard.

Sit start and up. Quite awkward and sharp...but the moves all go...

Fun bloc with a surprising number of problems on it. The slab on the left offers a fun warm up and a tricky sitter into the slab ('Old meets New'). The cave section can be divided into the stand starts and two sit start positions: The stand starts all start matched on the jug undercling. The first sit position is compressing the left arete starting with left hand on good low triangular hold and right hand under the roof on edge (same start as for 'Old Meets New') The second sit position is deep under the cave with left hand on the undercling edge and right hand edge around the right.

Routes starting on the left side of the boulder with the slab.

Stand start and slab it up. Can be done with using the left arete or without (slightly harder) for extra style points.

FA: Jim Nevin, 2002

Sit start left hand on the good low triangular hold and righthand under the roof on edge. Tricky up to crimps and top out as for 'Old Gods' on the slab. Avoid using the rock underneath

Sit start as 'Old Meets New' but traverse right to finish as for 'Steep Edges'.

https://youtu.be/2YA5F81qSDs

FA: Michael Taran, 7 Apr 2022

Start as 'Old Meets New' and traverse right to finish at the orange bloc with a big lob for the lip.

https://youtu.be/z8t5qBJs0YU

FA: Michael Taran, 21 May

Routes starting on the right side of the boulder - the steeper section

Crouch start matched on the jug undercling. Couple of powerful moves. Avoid the right elbow dab on the back boulder! https://youtu.be/HcMGlrhMkdA?t=60

FA: Andy Lampard

Stand start matched on the jug undercling as for 'Steep Edges', but instead of going to the flake out right head out left to the arete with a tricky sequence to join the slab of 'Old Gods'.

FA: Michael Taran, 17 Feb 2022

Sit start on the undercling edge and edge around the right then up and left. Powerful first move to the undercling jug into a heartbreaking finish crux.

https://youtu.be/srez3FsvO40

Went down after 100+ sessions of epic then quickly got a 2nd and 3rd ascent, downgrading to ~V8.

FA: Michael Taran, Dec 2021

Sit start as 'Stone Unturned', instead of going to the flake out right head out left with a tricky sequence to finish as 'Old Gods'. Sustained and tricky. https://youtu.be/JUvPAtxpaS4

FA: Michael Taran, 3 Mar 2022

Sit start as for 'Stone Unturned'. From the jugs go straight up to the obvious orange bloc above the flake avoiding going right to the flake or going left to join the slab of ‘Old Gods’. A tad contrived...

Stand start from jug undercling FA 24/4/22 V9/10? Michael T

Stand start on obvious jugs on the right arete. Optional morpho direct sitter.

FA: Jim Nevin, 1992

Sit start on crimps, then traverse right on underclings into the jugs on the right arete to top out as 'Fun'

FA: Dave Mcnamara, 1998

Sit start on crimps, then into the under clings then straight up to the top.

Sit start. https://youtu.be/KwLzohGPYeQ

FA: Ronald Master

Up the easy slab

FA: Jim Nevin, 1986

Stand start the slab to gain the high flake then straight up to finish.

FA: Patrick Kirkland, 1998

Slab on the left. Up avoiding the jugs around to the left

Stand start wide with good left hand and right hand on poor slopey features. Stretch out those legs and jam a right heel to cross over to the good holds up high and top out. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bpz1wIIBJSe/

The right heel hook hold has since been broken

FA: Thomas Farrell, 2019

Stand start with high crimps. Tricky smears to snatch the thin right hand flake into an easy top.

Stand start with the blunt arete.

Start far under the fridge roof with right hand on the good edge and left hand as low as possible on the slopey arete. Slap your way to glory! Great little compression low ball

FA: Michael Taran, 20 Feb 2022

Sit start with obvious fin and straight up. One mover

FA: Michael Taran, 20 Feb 2022

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