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Description

Boulders littered throughout the floor of The Amphitheatre. Host to some fantastic climbing, though not well documented. If these already have names or you know who FAd please update them!

Access issues inherited from The Gap

The Park Ranger has stated that no climbing is allowed in the area on weekends and public holidays. Many lives have been lost and they don't want non-climbers putting themselves at risk wandering away from the lookouts.

Routes

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Grade Route

The back wall of the amphitheatre on your left as you scramble in. Some awesome problems, varying from vertical to steep. Some nice easy warm ups. Can run with ground water, so summer and autumn are the best time of year for these problems.

Sit start.

Stand start on slopey edges. Two tricky moves to the flat lip. Slippery!

https://youtu.be/4yhMBqcHYow?t=133

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start.

Stand has been done... quite awkward

Sit start on the right. Up the jug flake then make an exposed traverse left to top out on the obvious ledge.

sit start. Up jugs, scary topout...

High and terrifying. Sit start and then come out left onto the face into a terrifying ending.

Sit start on good flake then up the overhanging face trending left. Bulk hard.

FA: Andy Lampard?

Sit start, up the right arete. Powerful and technical to the lip then trend left to topout. Direct topout has also been done and is slightly harder. https://youtu.be/4yhMBqcHYow?t=216

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start. Up the obvious vertical crack then escape to topout... scary. (Can escape topping out left or right ).

Listed as ‘sea spray’ gr14, 7m FA by R Doherty, A Webb nov 1990. Easily protected with bouldering mats, and obvious sitter.

Sit start at the base of the obvious prow. Slap up to gain the obvious flat jug. Ballsy topout.

Stand start. Up the right face. Scary up high...

Boulders littered in the middle of the amphitheatre. Great range of problems. The problems are listed in roughly clockwise fashion as you walk in.

Sit start on the right. Straight up with weird moves.

Variant: sit start on the flake on the left

FA: Local Crew

Start as for ‘Party Pooper’ traverse left and around the corner into the slab and traverse the slab to top out on the far left corner as for ‘Port’. The lip is out for the traverse until you link into port. Contrived, but good for training slab..

Sit start far right, traverse left to top out on the arete. Direct = V1

FA: Local Crew

Sit start with crimps. Straight up.

Sit start with flake. Tricky to establish, then straight up.

Sit start on the triangular feature with smears. Up the left arete.

Sit start.

Sit start on flat rail. Up through the roof with the flake system. Finish matched on the underclings (boulder problem is a drop off).

Definitely possible to link it into the the trad route 'Crosswords' - sit start to trad climbing?!

Sit start. Tricky start move to gain jugs.

FA: Local Crew

Sit start then slap your way up. Classic! https://youtu.be/4yhMBqcHYow?t=9

FA: Andy Lampard

Start the same as Spectator Sports, traverse right to the jug and finish at the top of Shirt Dab.

Sit start, right hand arete left hand undercling. Sneaky beta to gain the jug and top out.

Sit start on juggy side pull up up the face.

Sit start with left hand jug and right hand on the arete. Tricky move to establish.

Sit start with left palming down and feet out right. Just press up and grab the lip, then traverse and finish left. Silly stuff, if you're tall its not even a problem.

Fun variant was done by starting in a handstand, step your hands up onto the boulder, then rotate around like a clock and once upright again, finish as normal.

Sit start, up the vague arete.

Sit start on the far left. Up the face. Thin.

FA: Local Crew

Sit start in the middle of the face. Trust your feet on the way up.

Sit start matched on the obvious flat jug. Tricky moves straight up the face.

Sit start on good hold. Long move up and right.

FA: Local Crew

Sit start on the far left as 'Count Your Blessings' and traverse right to finish up 'Toe the line'. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1YnOs-mBWU

FA: Simon Nadin & Scott Camps, 1992

Sit start with sharp left hand undercling and slopey pinch. Tricky smear to slap the lip and top out.

Sit start. Up the crack.

Sit start, up the arete and right face avoiding the boulder behind you.

Sit start, squeeze your way up the arete and left face avoiding the boulder behind you. Tricky up top.

Sit start. Corner crack

FA: Local Crew

Stand start. Up the triangular face avoiding the left boulder.

Sit start. Traverse the rising crack rightwards to finish up easy jugs on the right.

Also a sit that can be added into 'Fancy Free' if you like..

FA: Local Crew

Sit start

Stand start on the crack. Up the face. Optional sit on the left. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1YnOs-mBWU

FA: Andy Lampard

Stand start and head up and left through the edges.

Stand start. Bit of an eliminate - balancy moves to head straight up to obvious high flat rail. Optional sit start that adds a grade.

Sit start as low as you can in the roof. Rad moves on some steepness into a sketchy topout. Only viable in low swell and low tide.

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start.

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start. Shoulder your way up. This one is right in the king wave zone so low tide and swell is the way to go. Watch those pads!

Stand start with right hand undercling and left hand sloper at the bottom of the huge roof to the right of 'Mini-adventure'. Flowing movement on jugs into the guts of the roof and a radical high tension crux. Avoid the dab and top out. A classic!

Needs low swell, low tide and a good going easterly to dry off. Sketchy landing.

https://youtu.be/G-sbC4BD0pI

FA: Michael Taran, 22 Mar 2020

Sit start deep in the roof on the obvious flat jug on the left. Move right into hard moves to join the stand - 'Absolution'. All the moves have been done... and has been done in two overlapping sections (fell off the last move like a punter!!! )

Sit start. Up the layback jugs. Big move to finish, with various options for beta. https://youtu.be/4yhMBqcHYow?t=170

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start on flat edges. Tricky starting move. https://youtu.be/4yhMBqcHYow?t=97

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start on jugs of FITH, but head out the opposite way. Once you gain the face exit straight up with big undercling and avoid trending right

Tension dependent and hard.

https://youtu.be/fNNp4o4-Koo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwJgeDd6vgI

FA: Davide Corà, 2018

Classic in its own right! Start on the jug on the corner of the roof and follow the edge rail out right to finish up the arete. Classic!

Sit start deep under the roof, traverse right to the roof corner then turn the corner and follow right on good edges. Avoid the boulder underneath. An instant classic! https://youtu.be/z6O06yvfO5Y?t=104

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit Start under the roof same as Fire In The Hole, but exit straight up the face rather than traversing along the rail

Starting at the edge of the roof nets you V5/6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=flK9qlzew4c

FA: Davide Corà, 2018

Sit start. up the flake.

Sit start with slot for hands. Up with jugs and a fun sequence trending right.

Stand start on flat holds and up.

On the right as you walk in is The Chasm. Usually wet, unless the swell/tide are low. Some fun ones, with more to go...

Has this been done? who knows - looks cool though!

the crimp broke

Sitstart with slopers. Big move left and up on jugs

Sit start, up with easy moves into a slopey topout

Sit start and up the good holds. A bit of a dodgy landing, but easy up high.

FA: Woody133, 7 Mar 2020

Sit start with the break. Up to the obvious flake into an easy top.

FA: Woody133, 7 Mar 2020

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