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Description

World class bloc situated on the edge of the sea. Just enough holds on the steep face of this aesthetic boulder for a selection of stellar problems. Potential for boulder problems in the surrounding areas - mostly highball slabs and funky short problems (have these been done before?).

DANGER: Best climbed in low swell - rough surf has been known to steal pads and there is a significant risk of being swept to sea.

Access issues inherited from The Pixar Boulders

DANGER: Best climbed in low swell - rough surf has been known to steal pads and there is a significant risk of being swept to sea.

Approach

From the Blowholes carpark take the path right and take a left to scramble down the vague gulley. The last section is steep and rocky and can get very slippery when wet (high swells, wind and rain see to this).

Be mindful of the vegetation and erosion as this is in a National Park. A vague track down the gulley has formed over the past couple of years and it is best to stick to this where possible.

History

History timeline chart

Woody spied holds on this boulder in early 2016. The legendary Andy Lampard then put up the first problems on the two aretes of this boulder later in 2016 and started to sink time into the ultra-hard middle line.

After being joined by British strongman (and tallman) Will Atkinson all the moves finally went down and the Brit snatched up the first ascent in early 2018 - 'To Infinity and Beyond' was born.

After spying a right hand entry - Will Atkinson sunk many more sessions into the boulder before finally opening 'One Step Beyond' in early 2018.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start to 'Cowards Crawl' (line listed from 1987 solo by G Duczynski).

Stand start. Squeeze your way up! Andy has probably already done it. Seems hard!

FA: Andy Lampard

Start on low holds - right hand juggy feature and left hand on low slopey edge. Straight up.

FA: Andy Lampard

Start on lowest holds on the slopey runnel. Follow it up and right.

FA: Andy Lampard

Ask Andy Sit start at the base of the arete. Up the imposing feature. Landing is...death. Andy has probably done it...

FA: Andy Lampard

Ask Andy Sit start on the right of the face. Hard moves to gain the high jugs and finish as the highball arete. Andy has probably done it...

FA: Andy Lampard

Stand start - up the slab keeping to the right of the jutting arete.

FA: Probably Andy

Stand start - up the slab into the scoop left of the obvious jutting arete.

FA: Probably Andy

Stand start the right arete, keeping to the right face. Tricky start.

FA: Probably Andy

Sit start with obvious jug flake and follow the layback up the middle of the face to committing moves up high. An instant classic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBkcifiE22w

FA: Andy Lampard

Stand start with right hand on the triangular sidepull. Crux is establishing the start to make an awkward move up to a knob-jug and top out with the slab. "It exists".

Stand start with underclings. Up to the jug, then a deceptively tricky sequence to gain a good hold and top out.

FA: Andy Lampard

The sweeping left arete. Sit start on the diamond wing at the base of the arete and traverse the arete to topout at the peak of the boulder. Early exits are possible, and earn you a downgrade. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6X5_GpG8Xv8

FA: Andy Lampard, Dec 2016

Stand start on the obvious flat rail in the middle of the overhung face. Shoulder up to the obvious juggy feature from a tiny crimp and reel yourself up for the massive finishing dyno. Hard and classic. "this isn't flying it's falling with style"

https://vimeo.com/264040170

FA: Will Atkinson, 19 Jan 2018

Sit start with nasty crimps under the stand of 'To Infinity and Beyond'

https://vimeo.com/327248010

FA: Will Atkinson, 29 Mar 2019

Sit start on the far right arete as for 'Mrs Potato Head'. Traverse left with long move to undercling flake to gain the stand start for 'To Infinity and Beyond'. Epic!

https://vimeo.com/268975880

FA: Will Atkinson, 10 May 2018

Sit start with juggy left hand and right hand on arete. Slap your way up the arete to glory.

FA: Andy Lampard, Dec 2016

Stand start with obvious undercling. Up the slab.

FA: Andy Lampard

Start on the obvious rail. Long move to the lip. Traverse rightwards to top out. A bit close to the drink! All moves have been done... just awaiting a brave soul to link them all!

Sit start. Up the arete. Insecure movement and a disconcerting landing... Andy has probably done it...

Sit start with crimp and sidepull. Up through slopey holds. A bit weird

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start with good left hand sidepull. Weird mantle to gain the slab and top out easily.

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start on the shelf. Hard move to gain sidepull sloper-crimps then stand up and topout. Awkward and hard

Sit start. Nice and easy.

FA: Andy Lampard

Stand start on good flake and up to topout.

FA: Andy Lampard

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