• Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 7




Excellent single pitch slab and crack climbing on perfect Albany gneiss. Two distinct areas provide a great variety of sport and trad routes. A full trad rack including bolt plates is required with large gear needed for some of the big cracks. Doesn't get much sun in winter and is best avoided during the colder months. The walls at the eastern area are on a large slabby ledge well above the sea, similar to the black wall, however, only a couple of routes get sun in winter while the black wall remains shaded all day.. The approach is also easier during the warmer months.

Access issues inherited from Albany

Be aware of the various restrictions in place in the region, particularly regarding the ACZ and Public Holiday/long WE restrictions at The Gap:


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Grade Route

Step right at the small ledge then up the thin seam. Bolts and gear to DBB.


FA: K.Hartley & J. Herlihy, 2019

Climb the obvious flake up the clean slab.

FA: J. Herlihy & K. Hartley, 2019

Needs a big cam for the belay down low. Up to the jug, delicately left to the flake then up. Bolts and gear to DBB.

FA: R. Master & G. Hutchinson, 2019

A bouldery start leads to a clean flared crack. Good sustained climbing.

FA: R. Master & G. Hutchinson, 2019

Classic crack climbing.

FA: K. Hartley & J. Herlihy, 2019

Belay below the roof on natural gear. Up to the roof then traverse left to a good stance. Straight up the rounded layback flake to a jug. Tricky finish up the face above.

FA: R. Master, 2019

Mega-line up the middle of the wall. Start on the lower ledge and climb a short crack to a bolt that protects a mantle onto a small ledge. Traverse right along the dyke to a good stance at the arrowhead. Blast up the wall past a bolt (crux) towards the obvious layback crack. Sustained climbing up this to a bit of a stance and some gear. Finish straight up.

FA: K. Hartley, 2019

Nice sustained gingerbread. I mean fingercrack. Better than it looks! Further right is a cool wall with some potential.

FA: R. Master & Kym.H, 2019

Obvious incut flake/crack just left of CN.

Crack and face climbing. Gear and a couple of bolts. Take hangers.

FA: J. Herlihy & Kym.H, 2019

Start up thin right trending fingercrack and climb into the corner on the right. Step left then up shallow corner/flake system. Steep finish up the split headwall to a lower-off.

FA: R. Doe & Kym.H, 2019

Glory laybacking up the steep flake/crack. Gear and 3 bolts. Finish at the lower-offs.

FA: Kym.H & Woody133, 2019

The steep crack up the middle of the wall. Similar to "Crack O.D" at the blowholes. Good route. Finishes at a lower-off.

FA: K. Seewraj & Kym.H, 2019

Bouldery start into pumpy crack.

FA: Kym.H & Woody133, 2019


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