The Dark Tower Area



Access issues inherited from Albany

Be aware of the various restrictions in place in the region, particularly regarding the ACZ and Public Holiday/long WE restrictions at The Gap:


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Should go.

Stand start. High but quite secure slabbing

Top needs lichen cleaned off. Starts with awesome moves on nice edges.

Sit start on the left if the obvious rail. Traverse the rail then go up the face into the juggy flake.

FA: Michael Taran, 30 Nov 2020

Sit start on the left of the rail. Take a high traverse using balancy moves to gain the jug. Slightly easier.

FA: Michael Taran, 30 Nov 2020

Stand start as low as possible on the arete - low slopey left hand crimp and lowest part of right hand sidepull rail. Awesome moves up the arete then escape left to the juggy flake and up into the slab. All time!

FA: Michael Taran, 28 Nov 2020

Needs a clean. High and proud... one for someone a bit braver! Same start but avoid going left to the jug and instead take a direct line up the arete - adding a sketchy crux getting your feet sorted to navigate the bulge after the first crux.

With a lot more cleaning there is probably a right exit too - but it looks a bit sharp and chossy

Stand start with flat hold on the vague arete. Up and left keeping away from the holds on the right.

FA: Jim Nevin

Stand start. Up the easy slab with good holds.

FA: Jim Nevin

Sit start and up with slopey holds.

Looks nails. Needs a bit of a clean

Stand start where you fancy. Up the slab to the obvious juggy pockets. Fun and a bit high.

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Wed 21 Jun
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