A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Matthew Roberts Ben Gilbert Roydon Elliott Aussie Edwards Jim Richardson
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Tourist Rocks
70 in Area
- 1.1. Carpark Boulders 43 in Area
- 1.2. The Clusters 15 in Area
- 1.3. Benders Roof 4 in Area
- 1.4. Three Stripes 8 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Tourist Rocks 70 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.879895, 118.411259
summary
Easy access and a good selection of easy to moderate climbs on solid orange granite.
description
Great area to start the day - with easy access and good warm up lines along with some classic moderates - the picks being 'A Little Corner of Paradise', 'Postcard Home' and 'Benders Amazing Roof'
access issues
NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)
ethic
Clean tick marks and caked chalk. Clean up your rubbish. No chipping, gluing or bolting. Keep to the obvious ESTABLISHED trails and do not bash new trails.
NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)
1.1. Carpark Boulders 43 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.878958, 118.408817
summary
Easy access – park at the tourist carpark before the 4WD track. Walk in is negligible! A great area to start at with fun warm ups and some classic moderates.
approach
From the car park go left. Fishermans Zawn is right underneath the parking area, then continue to the left for the rest of the areas.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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Fishermans PointLots of easy lines with plenty of link ups. What’s listed are some of the straight up lines, but there’s plenty of jugs all over making for some fun traverses and eliminates. Go forth and warm up! | ||||||||
2 |
Lowballin' 1
Sit start. FA: Unknown | V0 | 2m | |||||
3 |
Lowballin' 2
Sit start matched on the flat blocky hold. FA: Unknown | V1 | 2m | |||||
4 |
Soggy Bum Sessions
Sit start. Often wet. FA: Unknown | V1 | ||||||
5 |
★ Undercurrents
Need a day of low swells and tides... Crouch start with good hold on the right and low left hand with crack and up following the crack. Sit is still a project as the feet are ways wet FA: unknown | V4/5 | ||||||
6 |
Left Face
Sit start with juggy undercling hold. Up easy jugs. | VB | ||||||
7 |
Bait
Sit start. Up the obvious jug flake. | VB | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
Tackle
Sit start. Up the face with good edges avoiding the jug flake on the left. A tad contrived. FA: Unknown | V0 | ||||||
9 |
Twin Cracks
Sit start and up the twin cracks. FA: Unknown | V0 | ||||||
10 |
Fisherman's Traverse
Sit start as for 'Left Face' and traverse right to top out via 'Twin Cracks'. FA: Unknown | V0 | ||||||
11 |
Catch
Crouch start. Compress the aretes and up. FA: Unknown | V0 - 1 | ||||||
12 |
★ Hook, Line, Sinker
Stand start on good edge and straight up. Short and sweet. FA: Unknown | V0 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Paradise BlocSolid boulder sitting right on the ocean with some great easy to moderate lines. The pick of the bunch is definitely the classic arete 'A Little Corner of Paradise'. | ||||||||
14 |
★★ The Travelled Path
Sit start matched in the crack on the far right. Traverse left then around the corner to topout with various jugs. Fun Warm up. FA: John Herlihy et al. | V1 | ||||||
15 |
★★★ A Little Corner of Paradise
Sit start matched on the crack. Up the arete and left face with awesome moves. A classic. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=157 FA: Unknown | V5 | 4m | |||||
16 |
★★ Birds of Paradise
Stand start. Up the obvious jug system on the left of the wall. FA: John Herlihy | V0 | ||||||
17 |
★ Birds of Paradise, Sit
Sit start matched on the crack then around to join the jugs of ‘Birds of Paradise’. FA: Unknown | V1 | ||||||
18 |
★ The Cracks Begin To Show
Stand start. Up the left-most crack. FA: John Herlihy | V0 | ||||||
19 |
★ Living The Dream
Stand start. FA: John Herlihy | V0 | ||||||
20 |
★ No Chocolate In Heaven
Stand start. Up the face right of 'Living the Dream'. FA: John Herlihy | V1 | ||||||
21 |
Fool's Paradise
Sit start. Up the corner with interesting moves. FA: Ron Master | V1/2 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
22 |
A Taste of Paradise
Stand start. Up the next corner crack. FA: Ron Master | V0 - 1 | ||||||
23 |
No Crack
Up the vague seam. Optional sit. FA: Unknown | V0 | ||||||
24 |
Nowhere to Hide
Sit start. Up the far right corner crack. FA: Ron Master | V0 - 1 | ||||||
25 |
Coldplay
Sit start. Up the face right of ‘Nowhere to Hide’. FA: John Herlihy | V0 | ||||||
26 |
★ Another Day in Paradise
Sit start. Up the parallel cracks and topout directly for the full value line. Escape left has also been done. FA: Unknown | V1/2 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
27 |
Puddle Jumping
Sit start with good holds and up the face with jugs. FA: John Herlihy | V0 | ||||||
28 |
Staying Dry
Sit start with flat left hand and right hand in the crack. Up the arete and left onto the face. Harder contrived variant up the right face using only the crack of you are so inclined. FA: Unknown | V0 | ||||||
29 |
Off Siders
Sit start with rounded jugs. Basically just an easy topout trainer… FA: Unknown | V0 | ||||||
30 |
No Big Deal
Sit start with jug and up the slab. FA: unknown | VB | ||||||
31 |
Should It Be Uncovered
Sit start with arete and thin seam and up. FA: Unknown | V7 | ||||||
32 |
Spotted!
Sit start left hand flat hold and right hand undercling with low feet and up and right. FA: unknown | V0 - 1 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
The Tourist WallObvious wall with a beautiful backdrop. | ||||||||
34 |
★ The Tourguide
Tricky sit start. Up with arete and face. Balancy. left sidewall is out. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=100 FA: Ron Master, 2009 | V5 | 3m | |||||
35 |
★ The Tourguide Var
Up with the left side wall in. FA: Unknown | V0 - 1 | 3m | |||||
36 |
★★ Finger Crackin' Fun
Stand start with underclings. Up the finger crack. Awesome. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=12 FA: Ron Master, 2009 | V1/2 | 3m | |||||
37 |
★★★ Wanderlust
Stand start right hand slopey pinch on the arete and left hand blocky crimpy undercling. Up using the left face and steep arete, avoiding going around the corner to the right. Marginal and hard. Very cool. FA: Unknown | V8 | 4m | |||||
38 |
★★★ Postcard Home
Stand start. Up the vague runnel between the two aretes with cool moves on slopey holds. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=65 FA: Ron Master, 2009 | V4 | 4m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
39 |
One Slap
Sit start with left hand in the good slot on the arete and low right hand. | V0 | ||||||
40 |
Trapped
Sit start and up the corner. | VB | ||||||
41 |
Slabbing
Easy slab stuff. | VB | ||||||
Fishermans ZawnRight under the car park. Often wet - so look for those magical low swell days and avoid easterly swells. | ||||||||
43 |
Puddle Jumper
Over the perpetually present puddle… Stand start with crimp. Tricky moves to start. | V4/5 | 5m | |||||
44 |
★ Destination Fucked
Stand start and up to jugs. FA: John Herlihy, 2009 | V0 | 4m | |||||
45 |
★ Warm Blooded Water Breather
Stand start with good holds. Nice and easy. Use the face and corner. FA: John Herlihly, 2009 | V0 | 3m | |||||
46 |
Warm Blooded Water Breather, Sit
Awkward sit start with crack. Tricky start move into the easy stand. FA: Unknown | V3 | 4m | |||||
47 |
★★ Tucked Away
Sit start with the flake system. Tricky moves up the face. FA: John Herlihy, 2009 | V2 | 4m |
1.2. The Clusters 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.879744, 118.410842
summary
The clusters offer some high but easy climbing on sharper rock. 'Life's A Beach' is a must do from this area.
approach
From the carpark walk right for 30m or so to the obvious boulders.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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Upper Terrace | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Life's A Beach
Sit start in break. Up with the vague arete. Pretty cool. https://youtu.be/HMUh04AMP1g?t=6 FA: Unknown | V4 | 5m | |||||
3 |
Project
Vague steep seam. | |||||||
4 |
★ Chinese Finger Trap
Sit start. Up the obvious corner crack. FA: John Herlihy, 2009 | V1 | 5m | |||||
5 | Summer Days Right Project | |||||||
6 |
★ Summer Days
Easy Jugs. FA: John Herlihy, 2009 | VB | 5m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Lower Terrace | ||||||||
8 |
Fish sticks
Sit start. Up the lowball crack. FA: Unknown | V0 | ||||||
9 |
★ Cluster O'Fucks
Stand start with the high flat hold. Up the face. Watch out for the boulder behind you. FA: Unknown | V3 | 5m | |||||
10 |
Cluster O'Fucks, Sit
Sit start on the left with the arete. Traverse right with thin crimps and tricky feet to join the original. FA: Michael Taran, Oct 2019 | V5 | 7m | |||||
11 |
Arete Project
Sit start and up the arete. Thin. | |||||||
12 |
★★ Fourwheel Drive Tough Guys
Sit start. Up the high and well featured face. Will get less chossy with some attention. Cool. FA: Unknown | V0 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
★ Safe as Houses
Stand start. Up the high face. FA: Unknown | V0 | ||||||
14 |
★ Gravity's a Beach
Sit start under the mini roof with left hand undercling and right hand sloper on the arete. Come out to the obvious horn looking hold and then up. A bit tricky and awkward but cool. FA: Michael Taran, 2021 | V5 | ||||||
15 |
★ Trivial Pursuits
Sit start. Easy peasy. FA: Unknown | VB | ||||||
16 |
3Low5Me
Lying down start with the low break. Chuck a heel and power for the next break. Avoid dabbing the boulder on the right. An exercise in ultimate lowballing. V-Whoknows...maybe V3? FA: Unknown | V3 | ||||||
17 |
★★ Pull Right Up
Sit start under the overhang with good pockets and up with jugs. Avoid dabbing! FA: Sam Richards, 2021 | V0 |
1.3. Benders Roof 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.880153, 118.411956
summary
Awesome roof climbing on beautiful gloden granite right on the ocean.
approach
Walk past ‘The Clusters’ about 100m and then down to the coast line. Alternatively park at the fist carpark on the 4wd track (accessible by 2wd also) and take the track down to the coast and left. Only possible to climb with low swells.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★★ Benders Amazing Roof
Sit start matched on the flat jug at the back of the roof. Climb the roof with fun moves through the jug system and exit directly with awesome moves into a slightly exposed finish. https://youtu.be/HMUh04AMP1g?t=128 FA: Andy Lampard, 2016 | V7 | 6m | |||||
2 |
★★★ Benders Amazing Roof, RHV
Start as for 'Benders Amazing Roof'. Trend right into the large obvious sidepull and up into jugs and an easy topout. https://youtu.be/HMUh04AMP1g?t=60 FA: Andy Lampard, 2016 | V7/8 | 7m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Potato Patito
Sit start with opposing holds (left hand diagonal seam and right on vertical seam). Up with burly compression moves and bunchy feet. Classic. FA: Tom Farrell, 24 Sep 2023 | V8/9 | ||||||
4 |
Project
Crouch start left hand on vertical seam and right hand on bulge. One hard move up to jugs. |
1.4. Three Stripes 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Deep water soloing
Lat / Long: -34.880513, 118.413552
summary
Deep water solo area. 7 lines on the wall plus a traverse. A couple of easy problems done near by, but nothing to write home about and therefore they have been omitted from the guide due to laziness..
description
The wall opposite the distinctly striped 'Three Stripes' wall offers perfect lines with deep calm water an an exit.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 |
★★★ The Three Stripes Traverse
FA: John Herlihy et al. FA: 2009 | V2 | ||||
2 |
The Escutcheon
FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009 | V1 - 3 | ||||
3 |
Helmsman's Choice
FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009 | V1 - 3 | ||||
4 |
Hell or Highwater
FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009 | V1 - 3 | ||||
5 |
Batten Down the Hatches
FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009 | V1 - 3 | ||||
6 |
In Deeper Waters
FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009 | V1 - 3 | ||||
7 |
Passing in the Night
FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009 | V1 - 3 | ||||
8 |
The Nautilus
FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009 | V1 - 3 |