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Tourist Rocks Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Matthew Roberts Ben Gilbert Roydon Elliott Aussie Edwards Jim Richardson

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Tourist Rocks 70 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
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A
M
J
J
A
S
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D

Seasonality

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.879895, 118.411259

summary

Easy access and a good selection of easy to moderate climbs on solid orange granite.

description

Great area to start the day - with easy access and good warm up lines along with some classic moderates - the picks being 'A Little Corner of Paradise', 'Postcard Home' and 'Benders Amazing Roof'

access issues

NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)

inherited from Cheynes Beach Boulders

ethic

Clean tick marks and caked chalk. Clean up your rubbish. No chipping, gluing or bolting. Keep to the obvious ESTABLISHED trails and do not bash new trails.

NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)

inherited from Cheynes Beach Boulders

1.1. Carpark Boulders 43 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.878958, 118.408817

summary

Easy access – park at the tourist carpark before the 4WD track. Walk in is negligible! A great area to start at with fun warm ups and some classic moderates.

approach

From the car park go left. Fishermans Zawn is right underneath the parking area, then continue to the left for the rest of the areas.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Fishermans Point

Lots of easy lines with plenty of link ups. What’s listed are some of the straight up lines, but there’s plenty of jugs all over making for some fun traverses and eliminates. Go forth and warm up!

2 Lowballin' 1

Sit start.

FA: Unknown

V0 Boulder 2m
3 Lowballin' 2

Sit start matched on the flat blocky hold.

FA: Unknown

V1 Boulder 2m
4 Soggy Bum Sessions

Sit start. Often wet.

FA: Unknown

V1 Boulder
5 Undercurrents

Need a day of low swells and tides...

Crouch start with good hold on the right and low left hand with crack and up following the crack.

Sit is still a project as the feet are ways wet

FA: unknown

V4/5 Boulder
6 Left Face

Sit start with juggy undercling hold. Up easy jugs.

VB Boulder
7 Bait

Sit start. Up the obvious jug flake.

VB Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Tackle

Sit start. Up the face with good edges avoiding the jug flake on the left. A tad contrived.

FA: Unknown

V0 Boulder
9 Twin Cracks

Sit start and up the twin cracks.

FA: Unknown

V0 Boulder
10 Fisherman's Traverse

Sit start as for 'Left Face' and traverse right to top out via 'Twin Cracks'.

FA: Unknown

V0 Boulder
11 Catch

Crouch start. Compress the aretes and up.

FA: Unknown

V0 - 1 Boulder
12 Hook, Line, Sinker

Stand start on good edge and straight up. Short and sweet.

FA: Unknown

V0 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Paradise Bloc

Solid boulder sitting right on the ocean with some great easy to moderate lines. The pick of the bunch is definitely the classic arete 'A Little Corner of Paradise'.

14 The Travelled Path

Sit start matched in the crack on the far right. Traverse left then around the corner to topout with various jugs. Fun Warm up.

FA: John Herlihy et al.

V1 Boulder
15 A Little Corner of Paradise

Sit start matched on the crack. Up the arete and left face with awesome moves. A classic. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=157

FA: Unknown

V5 Boulder 4m
16 Birds of Paradise

Stand start. Up the obvious jug system on the left of the wall.

FA: John Herlihy

V0 Boulder
17 Birds of Paradise, Sit

Sit start matched on the crack then around to join the jugs of ‘Birds of Paradise’.

FA: Unknown

V1 Boulder
18 The Cracks Begin To Show

Stand start. Up the left-most crack.

FA: John Herlihy

V0 Boulder
19 Living The Dream

Stand start.

FA: John Herlihy

V0 Boulder
20 No Chocolate In Heaven

Stand start. Up the face right of 'Living the Dream'.

FA: John Herlihy

V1 Boulder
21 Fool's Paradise

Sit start. Up the corner with interesting moves.

FA: Ron Master

V1/2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 A Taste of Paradise

Stand start. Up the next corner crack.

FA: Ron Master

V0 - 1 Boulder
23 No Crack

Up the vague seam. Optional sit.

FA: Unknown

V0 Boulder
24 Nowhere to Hide

Sit start. Up the far right corner crack.

FA: Ron Master

V0 - 1 Boulder
25 Coldplay

Sit start. Up the face right of ‘Nowhere to Hide’.

FA: John Herlihy

V0 Boulder
26 Another Day in Paradise

Sit start. Up the parallel cracks and topout directly for the full value line. Escape left has also been done.

FA: Unknown

V1/2 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
27 Puddle Jumping

Sit start with good holds and up the face with jugs.

FA: John Herlihy

V0 Boulder
28 Staying Dry

Sit start with flat left hand and right hand in the crack. Up the arete and left onto the face.

Harder contrived variant up the right face using only the crack of you are so inclined.

FA: Unknown

V0 Boulder
29 Off Siders

Sit start with rounded jugs. Basically just an easy topout trainer…

FA: Unknown

V0 Boulder
30 No Big Deal

Sit start with jug and up the slab.

FA: unknown

VB Boulder
31 Should It Be Uncovered

Sit start with arete and thin seam and up.

FA: Unknown

V7 Boulder
32 Spotted!

Sit start left hand flat hold and right hand undercling with low feet and up and right.

FA: unknown

V0 - 1 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

The Tourist Wall

Obvious wall with a beautiful backdrop.

34 The Tourguide

Tricky sit start. Up with arete and face. Balancy. left sidewall is out. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=100

FA: Ron Master, 2009

V5 Boulder 3m
35 The Tourguide Var

Up with the left side wall in.

FA: Unknown

V0 - 1 Boulder 3m
36 Finger Crackin' Fun

Stand start with underclings. Up the finger crack. Awesome. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=12

FA: Ron Master, 2009

V1/2 Boulder 3m
37 Wanderlust

Stand start right hand slopey pinch on the arete and left hand blocky crimpy undercling. Up using the left face and steep arete, avoiding going around the corner to the right. Marginal and hard. Very cool.

https://youtu.be/P1icbUD_ZM0

FA: Unknown

V8 Boulder 4m
38 Postcard Home

Stand start. Up the vague runnel between the two aretes with cool moves on slopey holds. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=65

FA: Ron Master, 2009

V4 Boulder 4m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
39 One Slap

Sit start with left hand in the good slot on the arete and low right hand.

V0 Boulder
40 Trapped

Sit start and up the corner.

VB Boulder
41 Slabbing

Easy slab stuff.

VB Boulder

Fishermans Zawn

Right under the car park. Often wet - so look for those magical low swell days and avoid easterly swells.

43 Puddle Jumper

Over the perpetually present puddle… Stand start with crimp. Tricky moves to start.

V4/5 Boulder 5m
44 Destination Fucked

Stand start and up to jugs.

FA: John Herlihy, 2009

V0 Boulder 4m
45 Warm Blooded Water Breather

Stand start with good holds. Nice and easy. Use the face and corner.

FA: John Herlihly, 2009

V0 Boulder 3m
46 Warm Blooded Water Breather, Sit

Awkward sit start with crack. Tricky start move into the easy stand.

FA: Unknown

V3 Boulder 4m
47 Tucked Away

Sit start with the flake system. Tricky moves up the face.

FA: John Herlihy, 2009

V2 Boulder 4m

1.2. The Clusters 15 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.879744, 118.410842

summary

The clusters offer some high but easy climbing on sharper rock. 'Life's A Beach' is a must do from this area.

approach

From the carpark walk right for 30m or so to the obvious boulders.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Upper Terrace

2 Life's A Beach

Sit start in break. Up with the vague arete. Pretty cool. https://youtu.be/HMUh04AMP1g?t=6

FA: Unknown

V4 Boulder 5m
3 Project

Vague steep seam.

BoulderProject
4 Chinese Finger Trap

Sit start. Up the obvious corner crack.

FA: John Herlihy, 2009

V1 Boulder 5m
5 Summer Days Right Project BoulderProject
6 Summer Days

Easy Jugs.

FA: John Herlihy, 2009

VB Boulder 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Lower Terrace

8 Fish sticks

Sit start. Up the lowball crack.

FA: Unknown

V0 Boulder
9 Cluster O'Fucks

Stand start with the high flat hold. Up the face. Watch out for the boulder behind you.

FA: Unknown

V3 Boulder 5m
10 Cluster O'Fucks, Sit

Sit start on the left with the arete. Traverse right with thin crimps and tricky feet to join the original.

FA: Michael Taran, Oct 2019

V5 Boulder 7m
11 Arete Project

Sit start and up the arete. Thin.

BoulderProject
12 Fourwheel Drive Tough Guys

Sit start. Up the high and well featured face. Will get less chossy with some attention. Cool.

FA: Unknown

V0 Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
13 Safe as Houses

Stand start. Up the high face.

FA: Unknown

V0 Boulder
14 Gravity's a Beach

Sit start under the mini roof with left hand undercling and right hand sloper on the arete. Come out to the obvious horn looking hold and then up. A bit tricky and awkward but cool.

FA: Michael Taran, 2021

V5 Boulder
15 Trivial Pursuits

Sit start. Easy peasy.

FA: Unknown

VB Boulder
16 3Low5Me

Lying down start with the low break. Chuck a heel and power for the next break. Avoid dabbing the boulder on the right. An exercise in ultimate lowballing. V-Whoknows...maybe V3?

FA: Unknown

V3 Boulder
17 Pull Right Up

Sit start under the overhang with good pockets and up with jugs. Avoid dabbing!

FA: Sam Richards, 2021

V0 Boulder

1.3. Benders Roof 4 routes in Area

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.880153, 118.411956

summary

Awesome roof climbing on beautiful gloden granite right on the ocean.

approach

Walk past ‘The Clusters’ about 100m and then down to the coast line. Alternatively park at the fist carpark on the 4wd track (accessible by 2wd also) and take the track down to the coast and left. Only possible to climb with low swells.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Benders Amazing Roof

Sit start matched on the flat jug at the back of the roof. Climb the roof with fun moves through the jug system and exit directly with awesome moves into a slightly exposed finish. https://youtu.be/HMUh04AMP1g?t=128

FA: Andy Lampard, 2016

V7 Boulder 6m
2 Benders Amazing Roof, RHV

Start as for 'Benders Amazing Roof'. Trend right into the large obvious sidepull and up into jugs and an easy topout. https://youtu.be/HMUh04AMP1g?t=60

FA: Andy Lampard, 2016

V7/8 Boulder 7m
3 Potato Patito

Sit start with opposing holds (left hand diagonal seam and right on vertical seam). Up with burly compression moves and bunchy feet. Classic.

https://youtu.be/5urJc1MZHKU

FA: Tom Farrell, 24 Sep 2023

V8/9 Boulder
4 Project

Crouch start left hand on vertical seam and right hand on bulge. One hard move up to jugs.

BoulderProject

1.4. Three Stripes 8 routes in Area

Summary:
All Deep water soloing

Lat / Long: -34.880513, 118.413552

summary

Deep water solo area. 7 lines on the wall plus a traverse. A couple of easy problems done near by, but nothing to write home about and therefore they have been omitted from the guide due to laziness..

description

The wall opposite the distinctly striped 'Three Stripes' wall offers perfect lines with deep calm water an an exit.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Three Stripes Traverse

FA: John Herlihy et al.

FA: 2009

V2 Deep water solo
2 The Escutcheon

FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009

V1 - 3 Deep water solo
3 Helmsman's Choice

FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009

V1 - 3 Deep water solo
4 Hell or Highwater

FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009

V1 - 3 Deep water solo
5 Batten Down the Hatches

FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009

V1 - 3 Deep water solo
6 In Deeper Waters

FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009

V1 - 3 Deep water solo
7 Passing in the Night

FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009

V1 - 3 Deep water solo
8 The Nautilus

FA: John Herlihy et al., 2009

V1 - 3 Deep water solo

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
VB Bait Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Left Face Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
No Big Deal Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Slabbing Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Trapped Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Summer Days Boulder 5m 1.2. The Clusters
Trivial Pursuits Boulder 1.2. The Clusters
V0 Birds of Paradise Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Coldplay Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Destination Fucked Boulder 4m 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Fisherman's Traverse Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Hook, Line, Sinker Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Living The Dream Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Lowballin' 1 Boulder 2m 1.1. Carpark Boulders
No Crack Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Off Siders Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
One Slap Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Puddle Jumping Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Staying Dry Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Tackle Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
The Cracks Begin To Show Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Twin Cracks Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Warm Blooded Water Breather Boulder 3m 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Fish sticks Boulder 1.2. The Clusters
Fourwheel Drive Tough Guys Boulder 1.2. The Clusters
Pull Right Up Boulder 1.2. The Clusters
Safe as Houses Boulder 1.2. The Clusters
V0 - 1 A Taste of Paradise Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Catch Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Nowhere to Hide Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Spotted! Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
The Tourguide Var Boulder 3m 1.1. Carpark Boulders
V1 Birds of Paradise, Sit Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Lowballin' 2 Boulder 2m 1.1. Carpark Boulders
No Chocolate In Heaven Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Soggy Bum Sessions Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
The Travelled Path Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Chinese Finger Trap Boulder 5m 1.2. The Clusters
V1/2 Another Day in Paradise Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Finger Crackin' Fun Boulder 3m 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Fool's Paradise Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
V2 Tucked Away Boulder 4m 1.1. Carpark Boulders
The Three Stripes Traverse Deep water solo 1.4. Three Stripes
V1 - 3 Batten Down the Hatches Deep water solo 1.4. Three Stripes
Hell or Highwater Deep water solo 1.4. Three Stripes
Helmsman's Choice Deep water solo 1.4. Three Stripes
In Deeper Waters Deep water solo 1.4. Three Stripes
Passing in the Night Deep water solo 1.4. Three Stripes
The Escutcheon Deep water solo 1.4. Three Stripes
The Nautilus Deep water solo 1.4. Three Stripes
V3 Warm Blooded Water Breather, Sit Boulder 4m 1.1. Carpark Boulders
3Low5Me Boulder 1.2. The Clusters
Cluster O'Fucks Boulder 5m 1.2. The Clusters
V4 Postcard Home Boulder 4m 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Life's A Beach Boulder 5m 1.2. The Clusters
V4/5 Puddle Jumper Boulder 5m 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Undercurrents Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
V5 A Little Corner of Paradise Boulder 4m 1.1. Carpark Boulders
The Tourguide Boulder 3m 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Cluster O'Fucks, Sit Boulder 7m 1.2. The Clusters
Gravity's a Beach Boulder 1.2. The Clusters
V7 Should It Be Uncovered Boulder 1.1. Carpark Boulders
Benders Amazing Roof Boulder 6m 1.3. Benders Roof
V7/8 Benders Amazing Roof, RHV Boulder 7m 1.3. Benders Roof
V8 Wanderlust Boulder 4m 1.1. Carpark Boulders
V8/9 Potato Patito Boulder 1.3. Benders Roof
? Arete Project BoulderProject 1.2. The Clusters
Project BoulderProject 1.2. The Clusters
Summer Days Right Project BoulderProject 1.2. The Clusters
Project BoulderProject 1.3. Benders Roof
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