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Summary

Easy access – park at the tourist carpark before the 4WD track. Walk in is negligible! A great area to start at with fun warm ups and some classic moderates.

Access issues inherited from Cheynes Beach Boulders

NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)

Approach

From the car park go left. Fishermans Zawn is right underneath the parking area, then continue to the left for the rest of the areas.

Ethic inherited from Cheynes Beach Boulders

Clean tick marks and caked chalk. Clean up your rubbish. No chipping, gluing or bolting. Keep to the obvious ESTABLISHED trails and do not bash new trails.

NO CLIMBING IS PERMITTED WEST OF THE WAYCHINICUP INLET BETWEEN THE INLET AND NORMANS BEACH (THE AREA IS WITHIN THE MT MANYPEAKS NATURE RESERVE)

Tags

Routes

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Lots of easy lines with plenty of link ups. What’s listed are some of the straight up lines, but there’s plenty of jugs all over making for some fun traverses and eliminates. Go forth and warm up!

Sit start.

FA: Unknown

Sit start matched on the flat blocky hold.

FA: Unknown

Sit start. Often wet.

FA: Unknown

Need a day of low swells and tides...

Sit start with juggy undercling hold. Up easy jugs.

Sit start. Up the obvious jug flake.

Sit start. Up the face with good edges avoiding the jug flake on the left. A tad contrived.

Sit start and up the twin cracks.

Sit start as for 'Left Face' and traverse right to top out via 'Twin Cracks'.

FA: Unknown

Crouch start. Compress the aretes and up.

Stand start on good edge and straight up. Short and sweet.

Solid boulder sitting right on the ocean with some great easy to moderate lines. The pick of the bunch is definitely the classic arete 'A Little Corner of Paradise'.

Sit start matched in the crack on the far right. Traverse left then around the corner to topout with various jugs. Fun Warm up.

FA: John Herlihy et al.

Sit start matched on the crack. Up the arete and left face with awesome moves. A classic. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=157

FA: Unknown

Stand start. Up the obvious jug system on the left of the wall.

FA: John Herlihy

Sit start matched on the crack then around to join the jugs of ‘Birds of Paradise’.

FA: Unknown

Stand start. Up the left-most crack.

FA: John Herlihy

Stand start.

FA: John Herlihy

Stand start. Up the face right of 'Living the Dream'.

FA: John Herlihy

Sit start. Up the corner with interesting moves.

FA: Ron Master

Stand start. Up the next corner crack.

FA: Ron Master

Up the vague seam. Optional sit.

FA: Unknown

Sit start. Up the far right corner crack.

FA: Ron Master

Sit start. Up the face right of ‘Nowhere to Hide’.

FA: John Herlihy

Sit start. Up the parallel cracks and topout directly for the full value line. Escape left has also been done.

FA: Unknown

Sit start with good holds and up the face with jugs.

FA: John Herlihy

Sit start with flat left hand and right hand in the crack. Up the arete and left onto the face.

FA: Unknown

Sit start with rounded jugs. Basically just an easy topout trainer…

FA: Unknown

Obvious wall with a beautiful backdrop.

Tricky sit start. Up with arete and face. Balancy. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=100

FA: Ron Master, 2009

Up with the left side wall in.

FA: Unknown

Stand start with underclings. Up the finger crack. Awesome. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=12

FA: Ron Master, 2009

Stand start right hand slopey arete and left hand crimpy undercling. Up using the left face and steep arete, avoiding going around the corner to the right. Marginal and hard.

FA: Unknown

Stand start. Up the vague runnel between the two aretes with cool moves on slopey holds. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=65

FA: Ron Master, 2009

Sit start with left hand in the good slot on the arete and low right hand.

Sit start and up the corner.

Easy slab stuff.

Right under the car park. Often wet - so look for those magical low swell days and avoid easterly swells.

Over the perpetually present puddle…

Stand start and up to jugs.

FA: John Herlihy, 2009

Stand start with good holds. Nice and easy. Use the face and corner.

FA: John Herlihly, 2009

Awkward sit start with crack. Tricky start move into the easy stand.

FA: Unknown

Sit start with the flake system. Tricky moves up the face.

FA: John Herlihy, 2009

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