Showing all 79 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Dog Rock | |||||
V5 | ★ Die Trying
Desperate climbing up the very thin crack. Good luck! (Can be top-roped, bring a couple of bolt plates) | ||||
Mt Melville Boulders GL95 Boulders | |||||
V4/5 | ★★ Mushy Peas
Sit start with the obvious fins at the base of the arete. Up and rightish with the arete and holds in the overhang. Avoid dabbing the tree on the topout! Fun moves and a bit of tension. FA: Michael Taran, 27 Aug 2019 | ||||
Mt Melville Boulders Summit Boulders | |||||
V4/5 | ★ Crashing Waves
Low start matched on the flake. Jam a right heel and make desperate moves to gain the slab. https://youtu.be/40AvCuE1R6c?t=50s | 4m | |||
V5/6 R | ★★★ Fight or Flight
Epic highball! Stand start with edges and up with tricky moves into a heady top section where you still have to keep it together. FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2022 | 9m | |||
Mt Melville Boulders Pinnacle Boulder | |||||
V4/5 | ★★ Bush Tucker Man
Located on the back of the pinnacle boulder. SDS. A great dyno with few options to start, traverse into the big flake from either the left or the right then do a big move up and left to a good edge. https://youtu.be/40AvCuE1R6c?t=1m34s FA: Kym.H, 2019 | 4m | |||
Mt Melville Boulders The Dark Tower Area | |||||
V5 | ★★ The Man in Black, High
Sit start on the left of the rail. Take a high traverse using balancy moves to gain the jug. Slightly easier. FA: Michael Taran, 30 Nov 2020 | ||||
Mt Melville Boulders Justin and Clays Boulder | |||||
V5/6 | ★★ One Day After Work
Sit start on the far left with the small boulder and traverse rightwards with cool moves on underclings through the middle section. Finish matched on the blocky jug on the right. Can be extended to finish on the starting jugs of 'Justins Line' FA: Clay Varley, May 2018 | 5m | |||
V5/6 | ★★ Before Work Sessions
Sit Start as for 'Justins Line' but traverse all the way left and finish as for the start of 'One Day After Work'. FA: Michael Taran, 3 Feb 2019 | 6m | |||
V5/6 | ★★ A Day Off
Awkward sit start on the pinch. Up to join the traverse of 'One Day After Work' and top out through the obvious jug flake for 'Justins Line'. Can also be started out left as for 'One Day After Work' for extra pump FA: Michael Taran, 3 Feb 2019 | 5m | |||
V4/5 | ★★★ Justins Line
Sit start on opposing jugs on the far right (right side pull, left hand flat jug) take the rising traverse left to top out through the obvious juggy flake. https://vimeo.com/314673203 FA: Justin Hannig, 9 Jan 2019 | 4m | |||
The Silo Boulders | |||||
V5/6 | ★★ Calling the Manager
Sit start on the right. Traverse the slopey lowball lip left and topout onto the slab at the left corner. A bit dabby, but good fun. FA: Michael Taran, 26 Feb 2020 | ||||
Point King Boulders The Politics Boulders | |||||
V5/6 | ★ Flawed System
Sit start with obvious spike under the roof. Out to sloppy holds then flat jugs. Dabby, but fun movement. FA: Michael Taran, 26 Mar 2023 | ||||
V5/6 | ★★ War Zone
Sit start with crimps. One hard deadpoint up. Avoid the kickboard down low for feet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qtG-8wKiskA FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2019 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Hung Parliament
Sit start with arete and low flake on the right face. Up to dunk the slopey lip. Balancy and rad. https://youtu.be/odNp6mmIgkk?t=38s FA: Michael Taran, 26 Nov 2019 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Chairman Mao
Sit start as for 'The Communist Manifesto' - then make a delicate traverse left to gain the arete and finish as 'Hung Parliament'. FA: Michael Taran, 11 Jan 2020 | 3m | |||
Point King Boulders Lighthouse Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★★ The Truth is Out There
Sit start low right on obvious undercling jug. Up and left to the arete, topping out on jugs. FA: Kym.H | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ The Ghost of John Reddin
Sit start on undercling, up past crimps and powerful right hand gaston to top out on jugs. Really good. https://youtu.be/3Z_TuEs8ISI FA: Kym.H | 4m | |||
V5/6 | ★★★ Quote Unquote
Sit start on flat edge, trend left and head up the bulge. Powerful. FA: Kym.H | 3m | |||
V4/5 | Welcome To The Gumby Club
Eliminate and contrived but fun if done in the right spirit. Start with both hands matched on undercling up with powerful moves eliminating the side wall on the left. Tricky. | ||||
Top Rocks Main Area | |||||
V4/5 | ★★ Tipping Point, Sit
Sit start with crimps. Up to long move to jugs. https://youtu.be/JSo3rLyi-t0?t=58 FA: Michael Taran, 26 May 2021 | 5m | |||
Mutton Bird Main area All Time Boulder | |||||
V4/5 | ★ Take What You Can Get
Stand start with positive hold on the arete and up... | ||||
Mutton Bird Main area Prow Boulder | |||||
V5 | One Move Wonder
Sit start matched on the low flake. Powerful move to the lip. Unfortunately the landing is almost always soaked. | 2m | |||
Mutton Bird Main area Ridge | |||||
V5/6 | ★★ Occam's Razor
Sit start as for ‘The Arete’ climb up then link right with a long move to the jugs and top out as ‘High Times’ | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ The Arete
Sit start and up. https://youtu.be/qpcUVFjOGdc?t=2m52s FA: Andy Lampard | 4m | |||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Windmill
Sit start on blocky rectangular feature on the right. Dyno out left to the jugs. Top out around the corner or straight up for a bit of extra scare factor. https://youtu.be/KwLzohGPYeQ?t=2m7s | 4m | |||
V4/5 | ★ Off Kilter
Sit start with the arete and right face. Weird off balance first move. Finish directly up as for ‘The Windmill’. | ||||
V4/5 | ★★ The Mutton Bird
Sit start under the slightly overhanging face. Up using the obvious flake system and a kinda mono. Close to the drink - needs a low swell/tide - watch out for king waves! FA: Woody133, Jan 2016 | 4m | |||
V4/5 | ★ Inadvisable
Sit start low on sidepull feature and up slot ledges and round crimps, utilising crack techniques may prove useful. Nice movement, Falling is inadvisable. FA: Mitch Woodward | ||||
Mutton Bird Main area Junior Area | |||||
V5 | ★★ Crystal Cuts, Direct
Sit start as for ‘Crystal Cuts’ on the diagonal slot. Avoid going left to the good edges and instead Come up the vague right arete with small crimps. Stand start done by R Master in 2004. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZwnkZ2pZlw FA: Michael Taran, Jun 2021 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Old Meets New
Sit start left hand on the good low triangular hold and righthand under the roof on edge. Tricky up to crimps and top out as for 'Old Gods' on the slab. Avoid using the rock underneath | 4m | |||
V5/6 | ★★ The Nautilus
Start far under the fridge roof with right hand on the good edge and left hand as low as possible on the slopey arete. Slap your way to glory! Great little compression low ball https://youtu.be/FZwnkZ2pZlw?si=gIMufhtQcxiZKLcH&t=113 FA: Michael Taran, 20 Feb 2022 | 4m | |||
V4/5 | ★ Porthole
Sit start with obvious fin and straight up. One mover FA: Michael Taran, 20 Feb 2022 | 2m | |||
Mutton Bird Barefoot and Pregnant Sector | |||||
V5/6 | ★★ Chicken-Wingin'
Start right in the back of the roof. Wrestle the wide crack out of the roof and top out. | ||||
The Gap Atlantis Boulders | |||||
V4/5 | ★★★ The Escapist
Sit start on good holds, shoulder up to flake then long move out right to escape up the right arete. FA: Michael Taran, Mar 2020 | ||||
V4/5 | ★★★ Andy Woz 'Ere, Left
Sit start low on the lower break. Up the left corner with slopers and the flake. FA: Andy Lampard, Dec 2017 | 3m | |||
The Gap Gap Lookout Sea Wolf Wall | |||||
25 | ★ Cowtails and Cobras
FA: S.Camps & S.Kemp, 1990 | 15m | |||
The Gap Two Rocks/Will's Wall | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Spoon Fed
Stand start on good jug in the middle of the wall. Straight up the middle of this wall. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OINNrSayEQ FA: Will Atkinson, Dec 2017 | 4m | |||
V4/5 | ★ Very Lost at Sea
Start slightly right of 'Lost at Sea' (avoid using the inward facing rail). Thin. | 4m | |||
The Gap The Ampitheatre Atolls Away Wall | |||||
26 | ★ Crosswords
Start with left hand roof flake and right hand in vertical crack. Originally started with a rock stack to reach start holds. Hard lower crux into easy jugging. | 12m | |||
25 | ★★★ Just an Aleutian
| 20m | |||
26 | ★★★ Commit
Climb as for "Just an Aluetian" but at 3/4 height go right up splitter crack ( crux) then right another move or two and the straight up. FA: Gideon Mettam, 2011 | 20m | |||
The Gap The Ampitheatre Bouldering | |||||
V5/6 | ★★★ The Hurricaine
Sit start on flat rail (doesn't make much of a difference, but the original start is from the lowest of the two horizontal rails with a long-ish move up the the higher rail). Up through the roof with the flake system. Finish matched on the underclings (boulder problem is a drop off). Can be linked into the the trad route 'Crosswords' - making 'Local Anaesthetic' FA: Unknown | 5m | |||
V4/5 | ★ Training Traverse
Start as for ‘Party Pooper’ traverse left and around the corner into the slab and traverse the slab to top out on the far left corner as for ‘Port’. The lip is out for the traverse until you link into port. Contrived, but good for training slab.. | ||||
V5 | ★★ Spectator Sports, low
Start left hand on the good low hold (where you start the left heel for the original) and right hand as low as you can on the right crack. Adds some cool tricky moves into the original sitter, but is a bit contrived | ||||
V4/5 | ★ Toe Tipping
Start the same as Spectator Sports, traverse right to the jug and finish at the top of Shirt Dab. FA: Zedekiah colback | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ Shirt Dab
Sit start, right hand arete left hand undercling. Sneaky beta to gain the jug and top out. FA: Mitch Woodward | 2m | |||
V4/5 | ★ Read Between the Lines
Sit start matched on the obvious flat jug. Tricky moves straight up the face. | 2m | |||
V5/6 | ★★ The Amphitheatre Traverse
Sit start on the far left as 'Count Your Blessings' and traverse right to finish up 'Toe the line'. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1YnOs-mBWU FA: Simon Nadin & Scott Camps, 1992 | 6m | |||
V5/6 | The Mega-Futuristic All Time Epic Problem
Sit start with slopers and good feet. Awkward moves traversing right and to get around the corner and join the east crack of ‘split’ | ||||
V5 | ★★ The Gladiator
Sit start as low as you can in the roof. Rad moves on some steepness into a sketchy topout. Only viable in low swell and low tide. FA: Andy Lampard | 7m | |||
V4/5 | ★ Drop Off Kings
Located around the back of 'The Block' facing the ocean. Sit start with slopey holds on the far right and move into the juggy rail. Traverse left along the obvious flake and drop off at the end of the flake (roughly where the brown streak starts). Pumpy. Tricky to grade... 4/5? FA: Unknown | ||||
V5/6 | ★ Barnacle Bill
Sit start on flat edges. Tricky starting move. https://youtu.be/4yhMBqcHYow?t=97 FA: Andy Lampard | 3m | |||
Blow Holes The Pixar Boulders Toystory Bloc and Surrounds | |||||
V4/5 | ★ Sid
Stand start with underclings. Up to the jug, then a deceptively tricky sequence to gain a good hold and top out. https://youtu.be/9agD98pbq8k FA: Andy Lampard, 2016 | 3m | |||
V4/5 | ★★★ Mrs Potato Head
Sit start with juggy left hand and right hand on arete. Slap your way up the arete to glory. FA: Andy Lampard, Dec 2016 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ RC
Sit start. Up the arete. Insecure movement and a disconcerting landing... Andy has probably done it... | ||||
Blow Holes Golden Gate Area Philosopher's Wall | |||||
26 | ★★★ The Phantom Euro
Bouldery moves to start, preplacing the first bit of gear or a bouldering mat would be a good idea then climb the crack with some face holds thrown in at all the right places. Apparently led by a visiting Spanish climber? hence the name I've given it FA: Ernesto Navarro Medina, 2010 | 11m | |||
25 | ★ Half Moon With Cloud
FA: Andreas Roilo | 9m | |||
Blow Holes Eastern Wall East Side | |||||
26 | ★★ Payout Error
Initially top roped by S Aegerter in jan 97 First Ascent (pre-placed gear) by Logan Barber in 2007 | 25m | |||
Stony Hill Thumb | |||||
25 | Arete Climb
not bolted yet, tall slightly over hung wide arete. Trad anchors at top for projecting | ||||
Peak Head South Face | |||||
25 | ★★★ Long Time Coming
A memorable route in a spectacular position with some superb face and crack climbing. (1) 23m 25: Step left from ledge and head up steepening face past 3 bolts. Go right after 3 bolt to reach crack, and climb crack until 2RBB is reached. (2) 30m 20: Up face past 5 bolts to ledge. Head right up short corner to 2RBB on ledge. (3) 27m 15: Step 2m left of belay and climb slab past 3 bolts and belay at boulders. Set: M. Thake & G. Firth FA: M. Thake, 2009 | 80m, 3, 11 | |||
25 | ★★★ Headwind
Excellent face climbing up the centre of the South Face. (1) 10m 21: Move right from 2RBB to climb feature passing 2 bolts to ledge. Walk a few meters right to 2RBB. (2) 27m 25: The amazing face passing 6 RBs, to an unlikely crux move to reach short cracks. Follow these rightwards to belay in base of crack for Mist-Defied and Mist Opportunity. (3) + (4): same as Mist-Defied and Mist Opportunity FA: M. Thake, 2010 | 97m, 4, 12 | |||
The Prosciutto Bloc | |||||
V4/5 | Where The Dead Men Lie
Sit start with crimps and up avoiding an awkward dab. | 3m | |||
Salmon Holes Salmon Holes Boulders Northern Sector | |||||
V5/6 | ★★ Catching Waves, Right
Sit start on the juggy hold in the back and then out trending right. Strenuous mantle to finish. FA: Unknown | ||||
Ledge Point Boulders Disappointment Cave | |||||
V4/5 | Quacked
Sit start with scoop. Jam a kneebar and up. Interesting moves. FA: Michael Taran, Oct 2019 | ||||
V5 | ★ Sledgehammer
Sit start with obvious shelf under the roof. Out trending right. Probably some potential for alternate lines still FA: Michael Taran, Oct 2019 | ||||
Herald Point Boulders Crystal Caves Area | |||||
V4/5 | ★ Mantle State Exam
Sit start with obvious jug and left heel on flat ledge, and up the face with crimps. FA: Michael Taran, 31 Dec 2021 | 2m | |||
Jurassic Park Boulders Bettys Beach Boulders Beach Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★ Camp Site
Sit start matched on slopey rail with low feet. Up to the seam and traverse left into an easy top. Nice feature and rock but a bit awkward. FA: Unknown | ||||
Cheynes Beach Boulders Tourist Rocks Carpark Boulders | |||||
V4/5 | ★ Undercurrents
Need a day of low swells and tides... Crouch start with good hold on the right and low left hand with crack and up following the crack. Sit is still a project as the feet are ways wet FA: unknown | ||||
V5 | ★★★ A Little Corner of Paradise
Sit start matched on the crack. Up the arete and left face with awesome moves. A classic. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=157 FA: Unknown | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ The Tourguide
Tricky sit start. Up with arete and face. Balancy. left sidewall is out. https://youtu.be/v7zqhY87WB0?t=100 FA: Ron Master, 2009 | 3m | |||
V4/5 | Puddle Jumper
Over the perpetually present puddle… Stand start with crimp. Tricky moves to start. | 5m | |||
Cheynes Beach Boulders Tourist Rocks The Clusters | |||||
V5 | Cluster O'Fucks, Sit
Sit start on the left with the arete. Traverse right with thin crimps and tricky feet to join the original. FA: Michael Taran, Oct 2019 | 7m | |||
V5 | ★ Gravity's a Beach
Sit start under the mini roof with left hand undercling and right hand sloper on the arete. Come out to the obvious horn looking hold and then up. A bit tricky and awkward but cool. FA: Michael Taran, 2021 | ||||
Cheynes Beach Boulders The Nose and Surrounds | |||||
V4/5 | ★★ Survivor
Sit start matched on the small flat crimp left of the orange streaks. Up the face with tricky moves down low. Trend right to topout for the full value line (direct/left have been done). FA: Michael Taran, Jan 2021 | 5m | |||
Cheynes Beach Boulders The Cradle The Long Wall | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Separation Anxiety
Sit start matched on the low jug on the right. Up and then left into the slopey runnel with shoulder moves. Awesome. https://youtu.be/V9MTsGop4ZQ?t=206 FA: Michael Taran, Nov 2019 | 4m | |||
Cheynes Beach Boulders The Deep Space Boulders | |||||
V4/5 | ★★ Cosmic Artefact, Mid-Start
Up the back face from the slopers. FA: Michael Taran, Jul 2019 | 2m | |||
Cheynes Beach Boulders The Spoonful Boulders Main Area | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Santoku
Stand start with high right hand. Up the left trending diagonal seam. Rad. https://youtu.be/RbDt9IPkQ1o?t=56 FA: Michael Taran, Aug 2019 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Food Fight
Sit start with small holds. Hard start then up the vertical face tending left with good edges. FA: Michael Taran, Aug 2019 | 3m | |||
Cheynes Beach Boulders The Mermaid Boulders The Plunders | |||||
V5 | ★★★ The Sirens Call
Sit start. Up and then escape right with awesome moves. https://youtu.be/o7ESkfNQxO8?t=201 FA: Andy Lampard, Jan 2018 | 7m |
Showing all 79 routes.