A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDTrad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -36.762371, 141.845815
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
The open corner. Lots of chalk on the L wall
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Flight Deck Area
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
Steep scramble up the slabs below.
There is a rap station at the top of It'll Never Fly and one at the top of Orestes.
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
★★ Have a Good Flight Direct Start
Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added.
FA: Kim Carigan, 1984
Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains.
Start: Start as for JL.
FA: Ingvar Lidman
★★ Jet Lag
Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly.
FA: Geoff Weigand (Kim Carrigan climbed the first 8m (grade ~27) as the direct start to Have a Good Flight), 1984
★ It'll Never Fly
Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.
Start: Just left of 'Orestes'.
FA: Mike Law, 1982
★★★ Have A Good Flight
Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.
Start: As for It'll Never Fly.
FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982
You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version.
Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.
FA: Jim Newlands & John Bennett, 1966
FFA: Kim Carrigan (1st pitchand LHV 13/3/84), Glenn Tempest (2nd pitch & 8/76), 1979
Up, 4 bolts. 2nd and 4th bolts are scary to clip.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986
★★ Plimsoll Line
Straight up to Orestes' first anchor. Beware, this route is often slimy, and the pro down low is fiddly mediocre RPs. Originally had pitons, they were eventually replaced with bolts but those were ripped out by the ethics police, so good luck...
Start: Start at the thin left-facing corner 4m right of 'Orestes'.
FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter & John Moore, 1968
FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978
Celine and Julie Go Bolting
There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy.
FA: Louise & Lincoln Shepherd, 1984
|26 R||15m, 2|
|22 R||★★||Plimsoll Line||15m|
|24||★||It'll Never Fly||30m, 5|
|25||★★★||Have A Good Flight||18m, 6|
|26 R||Celine and Julie Go Bolting||15m, 2|
|★★||Have a Good Flight Direct Start||20m|
|29||★★||Jet Lag||18m, 8|