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Description

The area uphill and to the R of Muldoon.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Atridae Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Descent notes

Walk L to the rap anchors above Muldoon (35m abseil). Or go R along the cliff top and down the gully

There are rap stations at the top of Collision Course and Female Friends (30m abseils).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Take the thin crack on the L arete. Scramble off.

Start: Start R of C at a little gully heading towards 'Agamemnon'.

FA: Mike Law & solo, 1982

No bridging onto the opposite wall! BR, fixed wire, and then the crack. You can add to the fun by finishing up 'Crows in the Snow'.

Start: Start between NPS and CitS.

FA: George Fieg & Dave Gray, 1992

Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Presumably you have to finish up some other route to get off.

Poor rock and gear.

Start: Start on the L side of 'Collision Course' Wall, beneath a short, L curving flake.

FA: Paul Tattersall & Chris Shepherd, 1982

FA: (described finish added by Kim Carrigan & Malcolm Matheson), 1982

Thin face climbing and a dyno, nice! Originally given 26 with fewer bolts and no stick-clip.

Start: Start just right of the odd U bolts - use the stick clip!

FA: Mike Law & Ian Anger, 1983

Direct finish to 'Gay Olympics'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006

Little arete to striking large holes under roof. Move left until roof can be breached at obvious under clings, then up face, left past old peg on the right, then drifting left and up till the arete is reached, then back right up face to rap anchors.

Start: Start a few m L of 'Agamemnon', at a little arete.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Little, 1979

An excellent birthday present from Glenn to Kevin; the best route on Collision Course wall. Climbs the wall between Collision Course and Female Friends. Take off a star if the bees return. Three bolts and some trad gear.

Start: Either climb the pillar immediately right of Collision Course, or climb the start of Collision Course itself (better) to the horizontal ledge at about 10m.

From the right edge of the ‘holes’ recessed there, reach up to clip the first ring bolt. Straight up past this and the second ring bolt above. Continue up until able to reach right to clip the third bolt (on Female Friends). Up to the anchors (double rings) above Collision Course.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest & Glenn Tempest, Sep 2016

Reachy. An old route that starts as for FF and keeps traversing across to CC. Superceded by FF.

Start: Start as for WoI.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (variant by Mike Law), 1981

An exciting face climb that is very sustained.

Start: Start as for GG.

FA: Mike Law & Mark Moorhead, 1981

If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars.

Start: Start as for WoI.

FA: Joe Friend, John Chapman & Glenn Tempest, 1976

The diagonal elephant's butt crack, classic of the genre.

Start: Start just left of 'Agamemnon'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mike Law, 1975

  1. 15m (11) Up the slab to big boulder choke

  2. 25m (11) Up wide chimney using face to the anchor A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed. Now has a 30m rap station

FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964

Start as per Agamemnon, finish last 5m up Electra pinnacle staying on the Northern chimney face. Small pro. Descent off the back or Rap down Agamemnon bolts as Electra chain is an awkward downclimb.

FA: unknown

Tough move at BR then up L to short crack.

Start: Start up inside the 'Agamemnon' chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Stuart Hickson, 1982

Up the thin crack to PR, with difficulty to good flake, then another hard move up L. Move R to easier climbing.

Start: Start just R of M.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Originally 18 - it's still solid at 19! The Pauligks' aid wasn't actually at the crux - theirs was an awesome effort for 1966.

The appealing crack on the L side of the beautiful orange front face of the buttress. Follow crack till it finishes then step R and up Careful of the rock up higher.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk (1 aid point on p1), 1966

FFA: (Bryden Allen), 1973

Not as good as it looks unfortunately, and the bolts are hard to clip.

Start: Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T.

FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1992

Great sustained climbing with great protection the whole way. Start a few meters right of Electra.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977

Up Telemachus's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top. Good gear at crux then run-out on easier ground.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1981

Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.

Start: Start around R from T.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1985

The start of Love That Pain, escaping up Necrophiliac. The rock is a bit dodgy at the start and the gear is fiddly but the climbing is OK.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 1 Jan 2014

Left curving crack with a few nice jams.

FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967

The thin crack, careful of the loose block.

Start: Start 1m R of 'Necrophiliac'.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1978

What's in a name?

Start: Start: Right of 'Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1998

The crack R of a bush.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Necrophiliac'.

FA: S. Madoc & Sam Blainey, 1990

Up RftM then juggy traverse R around arete.

Start: Start as for RftM.

FA: Sam Blainey & S Madoc, 1990

Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.

Start: Walk up the gully R of the 'Atridae' then back over the top to find a gully behind the 'Atridae'. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.

FA: Andrew White, Sam Blainey & Jacquie Snow, 1991

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Activity

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