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1 13 20m
2 12 22m

description

Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.

  1. Up corner then traverse left along ledge with commiting move around arete up to belay. Gear belay.

  2. Straight up off belay, trending vaguely right through juggy terrain. Up to DRRB.

Rap from double ring bolts above the climb - double ropes required, or walk right and down the gully.

© (koala)

Route history

Sep 1965First ascent: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.76213, 141.84550

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

13,12 Assigned grade
13 RockGUIDE: Victoria
13 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
13 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
15 [15 - 16] ++ grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 84 from 931 ratings.

Difficulty - 13

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 4 ratings.

Suggested Grade

13
15

Based on 4 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 483
Flash 24
Solo 31
Red point 64
Tick 342
Pink point 1
Top rope 4
Attempt 18
Target 18

Comment keywords

dodgy hands awkward smooth jugs dynamic feet traverse arete epic chimney steep roof easy face rest flake crack bad lip sharp interesting reachy cruisy scary intimidating runout horrendous terrifying fall tricky committing exposed fantastic exciting rad wicked awesome amazing enjoyable classic beautiful lovely brilliant incredible super classy stupendous superb fabulous perfect good ripper fun nice stoked great cool crux challenging overhung hard sustained pumped strenuous solid sandbag tough

Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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