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description

  1. 15m (11) Up the slab to big boulder choke

  2. 25m (11) Up wide chimney using face to the anchor A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed. Now has a 30m rap station

Route history

Nov 1964First ascent: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.76205, 141.84541

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

11 Assigned grade
10 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
11 Benen Huntley
11*** Arapiles, Selected Climbs - 2008 2nd ed
11 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
11 *** ACA Route Register
9 RockGUIDE: Victoria

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 85 from 661 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 297
Flash 18
Red point 47
Solo 20
Tick 224
Pink point 3
Top rope 8
Attempt 5
Target 14

Comment keywords

hard solid crux jugs interesting easy pockets hands crazy face epic traverse crack bridging rest smooth dodgy flake contrived feet technical bad chimney fantastic good great awesome magic brilliant cool perfect incredible nice pleasant classic sweet fun amazing enjoyable super lovely exciting horrifying fall committing tricky scary exposed terrifying unprotected intimidating dangerous

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