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description

  1. 15m (11) Up the slab to big boulder choke

  2. 25m (11) Up wide chimney using face to the anchor A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed. Now has a 30m rap station

Route history

Nov 1964First ascent: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.76205, 141.84541

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

11 Assigned grade
10 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
11 private
11 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
9 RockGUIDE: Victoria

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 86 from 749 ratings.

Difficulty - 11

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 2 ratings.

Suggested Grade

11

Based on 2 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 337
Flash 21
Solo 23
Red point 52
Tick 256
Pink point 3
Top rope 9
Attempt 4
Target 15

Comment keywords

dodgy hands technical smooth jugs crazy feet traverse pockets epic chimney bridging easy face flake rest crack bad interesting contrived short scary intimidating unprotected terrifying fall tricky horrifying committing exposed dangerous fantastic exciting awesome amazing enjoyable classic lovely brilliant incredible super magic superb perfect good pleasant fun sweet nice cool great crux hard strenuous solid

Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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