Bluff Major North Face




Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).


From the top of Ali's go L around John's Pinnacle then up the ramp beneath the West face.

Descent notes

25m abseil from the rap station above Missing Link.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Sounds like it might be serious, or maybe it's just that Louise was having a go at Kim's psyche. Who knows. Start down L of AN.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Start under the R side of the low overhang on the N arete of Bluff Major.

  1. 20m (26) Head out left past a piton and a high bolt, then step down and left to arete and onwards to ledge.

  2. 20m (24) Great pitch up the arete past a few bolts, go L at the top.

From the chain of Anxiety P1, head straight up the arete on its right side, but instead of deviating out left in the last two-thirds (original finish), keep trucking up the arete all the way.

FA: Jill McLeod

As for AN but follow the original aid line and don't drop down to get to the arete. Bouldery. Start as for AN.

Bolted by Kimbo decades ago, this long-standing problem succumbed to the short strong bloke with dreads. Start as for Anxiety Neurosis.

FA: Davey Jones, 1998

Up the face just L of the arete (the arete being p2 of AN). Then join a sickle with a fixed wire. Sparse pro. Start at the first belay of AN.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1981

Start as for New Diocese.

  1. 25m (22) Up ND for 6m then traverse miles left above the roofs to belay as for Anxiety Neurosis. Take a 4 camalot and a bolt plate.

  2. 20m (22) Step L and climb a thin seam which is just R of pitch 2 of Kama Sutra, and just L of Holy Moses.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1981

Follow Anticipation towards AN, as far as a ledge with a bolt. Now go straight up disconnected seams to a bolt then step L to bulging crack. Needs plenty of #3 RPs. Start as for New Diocese.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Geoff Weigand, 1984

Up to the top of the flake then step down and go L, and up a seam with tough moves into a R-leaning sickle. This line actually joins Preservative Added about here, but next you need to trend L up the steep headwall. Start between Anxiety Neurosis and Missing Link, where there is a short flake above a low roof.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1981

Up ND but instead of trending R go up then L, very bold. Unrepeated? Start as for ND.

Eddy Mofardin has also climbed a variant, perhaps a bit further left of Roland's line, but this could do with clarification. Eddy

FA: Roland Foster & Philby, 1984

An extremely rare case of Kevin aborting a ground up trad route in order to resort to a bolt placed on rap. But then again he was probably about 12 at the time so we'll excuse him this time. Start as for ML.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jim Grellis & John Chapman, 1975

After the initial traverse, go straight up the whole way, finishing 5m R of the capping boulder. Start as for ML.

FA: Ross Cayley & Richard Chin, 1986

The low traverse makes it essential to use double ropes if you wish to avoid groundfall potential. After that the gear becomes more heartening, and the climbing is great. Start in the middle of the West face of Bluff Major, where the ground is at it's highest point.

Ann Pauligk's bold early-mid 1970s ascent may have been the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

FA: Reg Williams, Peter Jackson & Chris Dewhirst (1 aid piton), 1965

NA: Ann Pauligk, 1975

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Share this


Check out what is happening in Bluff Major North Face.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文