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description

The obvious main crack on the L side of the S face of Bluff Major. Wander up the crack to the top. It’s possible to head L to the anchor of FD if you want to lower off, otherwise top out.

© (willmonks)

Route history

14 Nov 1965First ascent: Ian Guild & Mike Stone

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75723, 141.84460

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

20 Assigned grade
20 RockGUIDE: Victoria
20 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
21 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
21 [20 - 21] + grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 89 from 216 ratings.

Difficulty - 20

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 7 ratings.

Suggested Grade

20
21

Based on 7 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 108
Flash 6
Red point 25
Tick 42
Pink point 3
Attempt 35
Target 12

Comment keywords

superb fantastic super stoked beautiful wicked exciting rad incredible good sweet perfect fun awesome classic great nice amazing brilliant tough struggle powerful desperate crux sustained solid hard peeled off difficult pumped challenging exposed intimidating tricky committing fall smooth jamming sharp crazy thrutchy easy rest bridging slippery crack hands technical feet interesting steep bad layback balancy chimney epic

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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