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Routes in Denim Wall

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Showing all 10 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
31 Balance of Power Direct Finish

Given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Mixed trad 30m, 7 Arapiles
1968
26 Denim

"It will laugh at attempts to free it" - Keith Lockwood, Arapiles guidebook 1978. Freed by Kim in 1979 it didn't laugh for long but it still has plenty of chuckles at aspirants.

Louise Shepherd made a particularly impressive ascent in 1984 - she fell off the initial roof, lowered off then did it second shot, onsighting most of the route and placing the gear. Possibly the first female ascent at this grade in AU (she'd previously onsighted 26 (!) in Yosemite in 1981).

Start on the L side of the wall.

  1. 18m (26) Steep thin cracks and roof to ledge.

  2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack. Despite what you might read elsewhere this pitch is not well protected at all.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore & Clive Parker (aid), 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1979

Mixed trad 45m, 2, 2 Arapiles
1976
22 Vixen

Start at the L end of Denim Wall.

  1. 15m (-) Up the unpleasant chimney roof, bridging at the lip.

  2. 30m (22) Up, then traverse R under roof, up Denim for 3m, then diagonally R to arete (beware loose block).

FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976

Trad 45m, 2 Arapiles
1979
26 Denim

"It will laugh at attempts to free it" - Keith Lockwood, Arapiles guidebook 1978. Freed by Kim in 1979 it didn't laugh for long but it still has plenty of chuckles at aspirants.

Louise Shepherd made a particularly impressive ascent in 1984 - she fell off the initial roof, lowered off then did it second shot, onsighting most of the route and placing the gear. Possibly the first female ascent at this grade in AU (she'd previously onsighted 26 (!) in Yosemite in 1981).

Start on the L side of the wall.

  1. 18m (26) Steep thin cracks and roof to ledge.

  2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack. Despite what you might read elsewhere this pitch is not well protected at all.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore & Clive Parker (aid), 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1979

Mixed trad 45m, 2, 2 Arapiles
1981
26 See You Round

A very tough crux down low. Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba's Cave. Bulge then crack.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Trad 20m Arapiles
27 London Calling

Start 1.5m R of Denim. Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to RB, diagonally R to 2nd RB, then trend L to 3rd RB (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux).

Berlin Calling (29*) is a linkup of Balance of Power into London Calling (Nathan Hoette Nov '04).

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Mixed trad 23m, 3 Arapiles
1988
26 Concise Exercise

Sustained. Start 12m up L from the start of Denim, part way up Vixen but access via ledge. Traverse the wall to finish up See You Round.

FA: Scott Camps & Paul Johnston, 1988

Mixed trad 35m, 5 Arapiles
1993
29 Balance of Power

Bolts are mostly rusty (still the case as at Apr 2023) and should not be trusted. Start 6-8m R of LC. Very bouldery past the first FH then continuous past 4 more FHs, then finish off to the right where Concise Exercise finishes. Lower off.

FA: "Fat Nick" Sutter, 1993

Mixed trad 18m, 5 Arapiles
2004
29 Berlin Calling

FFA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

Sport 20m Arapiles
2015
23 L7s

Avoids the desperate crux of See You Round by starting to the right at the hole. Bridge up 5m and clip the bolt on the L. Swing L around the arete (wire and tiny cams) to a mega jug and then up and R, move back L to crack through bulge, and then R again to finish at chains. Big holds and very steep. Not really sure of the grade, just a guess. The rock and the moss on this are not of the best quality, be cautious on it!

FA: Douglas Hockly, 13 Dec 2015

Mixed trad 15m, 1 Arapiles

Showing all 10 routes.

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