Routes in Main Wall

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Showing all 28 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
3 Bullet Buttress

A pleasant, low-angled buttress.

Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Keith & Maurice Leslie, 1967

Trad 20m
9 Holdup Line

Very nice.

Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

Trad 20m
14 Holdup Line Direct Finish
Trad 20m
11 Stage Coach

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for 'Long Bow'.

Start: Start just R of 'Holdup Line'.

FA: Ceri Law & Geraldine Thompson, 1981

Trad 20m
11 Working Class Hero

Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'.

Start: Just right of SC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Ian Wilson, 1980

Trad 20m
10 Long Bow

The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish.

Start: 1m R of 'Working Class Hero'.

FA: Ed Briner & Norm Osborne, 1970

Trad 20m
11 Ckup

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1994

Trad 20m
17 Kerfuffle

Start at crack two metres left of Ckinell but climb up grey slab on left to an easy stance directly below large thread. Straight up to middle of the two steep roofs. There's an undercling with a rattling tooth like block that is not going anywhere. Tricky gear and pumpy to place but regular gear can be found. Once over the roof follow the same line as Fracas to the top or head right to rap anchors.

FA: Freya Hik & Hywel Rowlands, Dec 2017

Trad 28m
16 Fracas

Start at crack line two metres left of Ckinell, up crack, gradually veering left into second crack, then through large guano filled pocket and jug hall through the easier section of roof above pocket. Easy climbing to top or head right to rap anchors.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Freya Hik, Dec 2017

Trad 28m
18 Lost Gold

The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell. Limited gear at roof and pumpy to place.

Trad 28m
14 Ckinell

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970

Trad 28m
12 Ckinothe

Long traverse.

Start: As for 'Ckinell' to gain Melville's Cave. Step right and traverse under the overhangs all the way to 'The Ghost Of Melville'. Meander right just above second cave, then up.

FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970

Trad 52m
24 Repo Man

Out through big roof in the main cave. Downgraded to 24 in recent guide.

Start: Beneath L side of Melville's Cave. Then the thin wall above.

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher & Jon Muir, 1988

Trad 25m
26 Climber-Model Denialists

Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto the lip jugs of 'Repo Man', then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past two FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2017

Mixed trad 20m, 2
22 Cricket Bats in a Box

Poor pro. The right side of the cave to a sickle flake, then left.

Start: Below the R side of Melville's Cave.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

Trad 25m
9 Cave Climb

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for 'Cricket Bats in a Box'.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

Trad 30m
12 Horse Drawn

Start 5m right of Melville's Cave. Up wall and through cruxy overhang.

FA: Peter Martin & Ian Howe, 1980

Trad 20m
13 Sexless Sue

Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top.

FA: Norm Osborne & Ed Briner, 1970

Trad 20m
13 Sue's Crutchless Knickers

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack to the left.

Start: 8m right of 'Sexless Sue'.

FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, Teddy Bear Thompson & Sue Magoo, 1983

Trad 20m
7 Little Revolver Crack

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'.

Trad 20m
6 Revolver Crack

The deep crack.

Start 20m right of Melville's Cave.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

Trad 20m
14 Hangman

Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.

Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

Trad 25m
15 The Ghost of Melville

ATTENTION: There can be a Bee Hive on this route, take care.

The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

Trad 25m
12 Big Dog's Cock

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by 'The Ghost Of Melville'... but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: R of 'Hangman'. Up slab, keeping right of corner to big pockets, over tricky bulge then directly up and through roof to top.

FA: Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Merilyn Reynolds, Michael Hartman, Rhonda & Emil, 1996

Trad 28m
22 Red Right Hand

Bring some painkillers.

Starts in the second cave (Nick Cave) through the obvious weakness in the roof with one bolt.

Mixed trad 10m, 1
22 15 Feet Of Pure Steep, Bro

Fun roof climbing, past a slightly spooky block.

Starts in Nick Cave, on the right hand side past two bolts and finishes up headwall at a sling anchor.

Set: muki woods

FFA: muki woods

FA: muki woods, Jan 2018

Sport 14m, 2
10 Six Wet Troopers

The least mossy line.

Start: About 3m right of 'Big Dog's Cock'

FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Rhonda & Emil, 1996

Trad 28m
10 Climb, sleep, repeat

The crack 6m right of 'The Ghost of Melville', through overhang and up gulch.

FA: Wendy Eden & Lassi, 1 Nov 2018


Showing all 28 routes.

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