Instant PDF
Directions in Google Maps
Seasonality
Description
The broad gully slightly W (Right) of the camping ground.
Emergency Locations : Central Gully Left Side Area, Central Gully Right Side Area
Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Designated
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
Approach
5-15 minutes walk from the camping ground.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Well established
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Tags
Plan your Trip
Did you know?
Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.
Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780987526427
This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.
ⓘ
Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9780987087461
444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!
ⓘ
Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest
Date: 1994
ISBN: 0646167308
A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo
ⓘ
Share this
Nearby Icons
| 10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell | ||
| 11 | ★★ Pedro | ||
| 15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | ||
| 17 | ★★★ Mari | ||
| 18 | ★★ Golden Fleece | ||
| 20 | ★★ Electric Warrior | ||
| 22 | ★★★ Squeakeasy | ||
| 23 | ★★ Poly Evans |
Photos Browse all photos
Simon Dale on ★★★ Eskimo Nell 10 - Simon racking up at the base of Eskimo Nell
Ryan Gaskon on ★★ Horrorscope 24 - DSC07924.jpg
Ryan Gaskon on ★★ Horrorscope 24 - DSC07924.jpg
/85/d7/85d70c99e65ed505c57f18e132bbf1a33a6cdee1)
★★ Moby Dick 17 - 20230420_161837.jpg