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Leafy Quoit Lump All Trad climbing 8 routes in cliff

Grade context: AU
Photos: 1
Ascents: 30

5 7 10 13 15 17 19 21

Map

Directions in Google Maps

Seasonality

Description

North East

The rock on the right hand side of the Central Gully Left track, while walking towards the Moby Dick/Golden Fleece area.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles,Central Gully Left Side Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Designated

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent notes

Trivially easy walk-off from the western side.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Well established

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Routes

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Start at base of mossy ramp and follow left sloping crack 2 1/2 metres left of 'Ann', Finish up left face of the bulge

FA: Tim Harris & Dave Millard

Start at base of mossy ramp, climb easily to small roof. Follow small crackline to top on slim to no protection.

FA: David Millard, 2004

Start at mossy ramp as for 'Falling Upwards'. Move right at top of ramp to join large obvious crackline.

FA: David Millard, 2004

The arete that points towards the campground. Up to obvious orange groove, R at bulge, then up.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1984

It is a wonder that this line, claimed to be 30 metres long, survived for so long.

Down and right of 'Leafy Quoit' is an orange scoop whose right side is caped(sic) by a roof.

FA: Bert Levy, 1998

Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. Follow the crack line just right of the overhang, up to the big ledge, then start up the arete, then begin moving rightwards from about half way up the arete. Finish in a comfortable, L-facing corner with a large, slingable block for an anchor.

FA: Dave Scarlett & Wendy Bruere, 7 Dec 2014

Contrived. As for Overachiever, but from the crack, move out left under the roof to a small foot ledge, then haul up through the roof. Roof is poorly protected, so protection up high in the initial crack is advisable, and it may be possible the get a high cam placement before committing to the roof moves.

FA: Dave Scarlett, 2 May 2015

This was originally called Sage but as there is already a real climb of that name at Arapiles it has been altered.

Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. 4 metres right of the overhang, follow crack to the right of hanging boulder, finish up to gap in blocks. Scramble off to right.

FA: Tim Harris & Dave Millard, 2004

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