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Operation Leo Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 14
  • Aka: Golden Triangle Wall

Seasonality

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Description

The gully between the Organ Pipes and Central Gully Left. More specifically, it's between Alchyne Wall and 'Brick Wall'.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles,Central Gully Left Side Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Scramble up the gully left of Brick Wall until the gully divides. There are climbs up both forks.

Descent notes

Carefully descend the gully or walk around the top to the Atridae descent.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

History

View historical timeline

For the record...4 new routes were claimed in this area but were repeats. All were either in Lou's guide or the Addendum to the second printing. "High in Marrowbone" was already Keeping the Tailend off Strike, "Feeling da Dog" is the Day Bryn's Dad got Scared and "7463-6" is Diet of Worms ... done in 1982. The route they called "Graedog" and put the nice shiny bolt in is actually Little Aesthetics, which was done before on trad.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Go up the left hand branch to the top of the gully. The first climb is up here at the left end of the righthand wall.

The slabby wall opposite Star Search and the main wall. Step on and up, to travers the bulge left to the last small deep wire, then up through crux to continue up slightly right to top. takes thin gear, small to medium wires, and slings.

FA: muki woods, Jae Zhong, Kane Hendy & Constantine Dritsas

FA: muki woods, 15 Apr 2020

The small crack/corner system on the L.

Start: At the top of the lefthand branch of the gully, on the R wall, are 2 flakes.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Sue Mills, 1981

Up R to small flake, then up R to L end of a ledge. Poxy flake to finish.

Start: Start 5m down R of OL.

FA: Kim Carrigan & solo, 1982

Start: In the middle of the wall right of Blue Chev' is a thin line.

Up this.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Smith, 1995

Start: Start right of Starsearch, under where the half height ledge ends.

FA: Smith, Hoskins & Pritchard, 1995

Worthless. Starts 2m left of Great View. Up corner stepping right into Great View at top to avoid loose blocks.

FA: Hoskins & Pritchard., 1995

Start: Takes the east facing prow of 'Operation Leo' buttress.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Smith, 1995

Go up the righthand fork of the gully and up a short chimney to a flat area.

Lovely line that has been inadvertantly retroed. The obvious line on the left wall.

Up obvious crack stepping right, up, then right again.

FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1995

Continue up the gully to below the middle of the righthand wall. The line in the middle of the wall, with a reachy finish.

FA: Robin Miller & Nyrie Dodd, 1982

There's probably a smutty double entendre here.

Start on the end of the wall right of Doddle.

The little corner then step right at top onto wee slab.

FA: Pritchard, Lattanzio & Hoskins, 1995

There are some flake cracks on the righthand wall of the lower gully. Two flakes meeting in an inverted V are a good landmark

Just left of the wide left facing crack, Diet of Worms. Stick clip first bolt. Wide flaring crack (crux) then hand jam to sharp holds that lead slightly left and up, small wires available if needed. Take some slings for the bollards to the top.

FA: Muki Woods, Ingvar Lidman & Lachlan Hick

FA: muki woods & Hanz Fritzle, 2008

The wide L-facing flake-crack.

Start: Start 4m L of MYC.

FA: FRA Miller & Dodd, 1982

"A good little route with a flake not unlike that on Moby Dick". Follow flake on righthand gully wall until it peters out. Traverse 2m L, then up face, tending R to easy arete.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Allan Wilkie & Malcolm Matheson, 1982

May start as for Mark You've Changed and then provide a direct finish to that climb. Or MYC may be just left of this. Needs another look.

Start at the lefthand of the flakes leading to the inverted V.

Up the obvious right facing flake then right ward on thin holds to a balance crux passing a bolt, then up to the anchor.

FA: Lachlan Hick & Muki Woods

FA: Lachlan Hick & muki woods, 2007

Start below tooth-flake 3m right of Mark You've Changed.

Up right side of flake.

FA: Smith, Pritchard & Hoskins, 1995

If you go right past Keeping The Tailend Off Strike and walk towards the head of Central Gully you come to a petite little yellow buttress, Mr. Blobby. Matching the descriptions to the rock is an exercise left to the climber.

Start: The left most line.

FA: Hoskins, Lattanzio & Pritchard, 1995

Start: The next line right.

FA: L, P & H, 1995

Good.

Start: Line on arete.

FA: L, P & H, 1995

Try not to pike right.

Start: Line 2m right of 'Cellulite'.

FA: H & L, 1995

Good.

About 20m west of Mr. Blobby there is a gully with a short line on the left wall.

Up crack.

FA: P, L & H, 1995

There is a climb in the little hanging gully right of 'Six and Out' towards the Moby Dick pinnacle. It is described under Golden Fleece Wall.

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Activity

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