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Moby Dick Pinnacle

6

Seasonality

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Description

A pinnacle with a couple of gnarly crack classics and Arapiles first grade 24.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles,Central Gully Left Side Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

The obvious pinnacle, immediately right of Golden Fleece Wall,

Descent notes

Best descent is abseil from rings above Horrorscope.

Alternative is to scramble carefully down the gap between the Moby Dick Pinnacle and Golden Fleece Wall, mostly on the wall on the Golden Fleece side. Not hard but don't fall and don't do it when wet. This doesn't get used much these days for good reason.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start just left of Moby Dick. Scramble up L then traverse R once level with the little roof. Now straight up to a dyno finish.

FA: Simon Mentz & Greg Pritchard, 1991

The obvious flake crack on the wall facing 'Golden Fleece Wall'.

Start: Start on S side of the pinnacle.

FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Dewhirst, 1966

The featureless arete just right of Moby Dick. Poor protection.

FA: Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1984

The wide crack just R of the arete. A better jamming testpiece than 'The Rack'. There's good gear but beware that cams have a habit of skating out of the polished rock so avoid flaring or merely parallel placements.

Start: Start just R of FT.

FA: Roland Pauligk, 1967

First 24 at Araps but otherwise a bit underwhelming.

Start just R of Hyaena. Straight up then follow the R-leading diagonal.

FA: Chris Peisker, 1976

FA: DS Kim Carrigan & John Smoothy, 1984

Pretty much a separate route - straight up to the finish of Horrorscope

FA: Kim Carrigan, John Smoothey & john smoothy, 1984

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