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Wailing Wall

Seasonality

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Description

The large bluff up the gully from Wuss Wall.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles,Central Gully Left Side Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The thin crack in the front face of the block.

Start: Start beneath the small block below 'Paladin'.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Ian Ravenscroft, 1983

Short orange wall, step L, up to ledge, step R and up.

Start: Start 15m L of GL at L rounded sickle incut, behind a small gum tree and 3m L of a scrappy gully.

FA: Campbell Mercer, 1992

The short flake with a bouldery start.

Start: Start on a small orange buttress L of TPtG.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Roger Greatrick, 1984

The wall.

Start: Start just L of P.

FA: Mike Law & Ben Ewald, 1976

Start beneath the appealing finger crack in the orange wall.

Saunter on up.

FA: Greg Child & Andrew Thomson, 1978

The central crack of 'Wailing Wall'.

Start: Start R of P.

FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

The big L-facing flake.

Start: Start R of SS.

FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1976

A pumpier partner to Sob Story and Tear Jerker.

Start as for SS and TJ.

From ledge where SS steepens (and TJ heads out R), fun and well protected climbing heads up diagonally L to crack on L wall.

FA: Andy Reynolds, Chris Abernathy, Ben Clayton & Lauren Connell, 1997

The short wall with a BR.

Start: Start just R of TJ.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Start beneath the proud steep buttress forming the highest part of Wailing Wall.

Slightly daunting start leading into the crack, then pump up the power to reach left into the next crack weakness. Up this to large pockets, then finish up and left.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Start as for Life in the Fast Lane.

Instead of traversing off left at the large pockets (as for the original route), move right a couple of moves and head up the orange face via an interesting sequence to the small roof. Bombproof gear in the pockets then a slight runout to the roof (and more gear) make this a tad exciting but generally quite safe.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Start beneath the RH crack.

Up the RH groove to it's finish, go up R to a mantle, then the face and the L-most corner.

FA: Greg Child, 1978

A direct finish to 'Die Loaded' which is a tad serious to lead due to the runout above the top of the initial crack. Technically 25 according to the FA, however 26 based on seriousness is a more apt grade.

Start as for Die Loaded.

Climb Die Loaded to the top of the pod, then against your better judgement crimp your way directly towards the hanging seam. Finish straight up the obvious corner.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2007

To ledge, then committing to gain the hanging corner on the arete just R of the top of 'Die Loaded'.

Start: Start at the top of DS.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter, 1985

A badly protected difficult start, which has been done many ways, eases off to nondescript climbing.

Start: Start about 5m R of DL.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978

2 stars might be a bit generous, but should help drum up the attention this excellent route deserves.

Start: Start 6m R of DS.

Up the L-leading fat flakes with excellent gear to excellent steep face/crack moves. Walk off the gully behind the wall.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1978

A linkup of Strife on the Gravy Train & Exploding Tomatoes. Start up SOTGT then move right and up into ET.

FA: Rhys, Anna Grant & Michael Hallang, 4 Jan 2019

Up, then L on ledges. Finish up black crack in upper L wall.

Start: Start 1 m R of 'Strife on the Gravy Train'.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Noel Coward & Peter Watling, 1994

Doddle up.

Start: Start 1m L of MSaS.

FA: Allen Hope & Bill Andrews, 2000

Up the thin diagonal to a break then traverse off R. The DF goes straight up from the horizontal at the same grade.

Start: In the Gravy Train 'Gully' is a thin diagonal crack.

FA: Chris Baxter & Malcolm Matheson, 1983

An accidental new route. Not easy to locate from this description though!

Start: Behind the 'Wailing Wall' up right arête.

FA: Edwin Irvine & Greg Pritchard, 2007

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Activity

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