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Shattered Buttress

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 35

Seasonality

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Description

The red wall up and R of Hellspite Wall.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Charity Buttress Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Up R of Lemming Wall, and almost at the top of the ridge, is this red wall. It might be quicker to approach from one of the summit carparks.

© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Yet to be determined whether it actually lives up to the impressive hype job, which goes like this: "That's the best move I've done in my life" - James. And: "This would be an OK route if it wasn't for the second pitch which makes it fantastic!"

Start: Start. Left of 'Shattered' there is a diagonal seam/crack (L-R). Right of this a thin crack allows runners. The crux is getting from the runners left and up into the line. It is possible to start to the left if you don't want any gear. As it is the upper part of the crack is a bit go-ey.

  1. 10m (20) Up to gear, step left and up into line then follow line up left, laybacking at will. When it's all over you can step left to a small stance on the arete.

  2. 15m (20) Climb the fantastic arete. Pull through first roof on left and then up to and through second roof. You can scramble off left from the top of the first pitch, or from below the final roof.

Later ascents have confirmed that they were on really excellent drugs. The climbing is rubbish.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

The line up the L side of the buttress.

Start: Start in the gully on the LH side of the buttress.

FA: Rod Young & Matt Taylor, 1976

The R-leaning sickle.

Start: Start on the L side of the orange/red face.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Quite good, but the bolt is crap. Don't lead it.

FA: Tim Ball & John Lattanzio, 1985

Poor pro. The flake then the fused corner, and L at roof.

Start: Start 3m R of AitDZ.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978

The thin crack.

Start: Start at the R end of the wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978

The first route in the world to have its own web-site!

Start: In the hanging gully at the back of the All 'Alone in the Dead Zone' (Shattered) buttress is an obvious corner. This might be the same gully as 'Dead End', but then again maybe it's not.

Up the corner, finishing slightly left

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Is an anagram of Tim Taylor.

Start: At the right hand side of The Dead Zone Wall left of and below a big loose flake.

Pull up and onto flake. Yard on it and stand up on it. Enjoy the finish.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

A smooth small wall facing north east approximately 70m up and right of Shattered Buttress. Climb to small sentry box. Take the right hand edge.

FA: Mike Totterdell & Pete Holmes, 8 Mar 2012

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