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Routes in Shattered Buttress for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
20 Glass Goblin

Yet to be determined whether it actually lives up to the impressive hype job, which goes like this: "That's the best move I've done in my life" - James. And: "This would be an OK route if it wasn't for the second pitch which makes it fantastic!"

Start: Start. Left of 'Shattered' there is a diagonal seam/crack (L-R). Right of this a thin crack allows runners. The crux is getting from the runners left and up into the line. It is possible to start to the left if you don't want any gear. As it is the upper part of the crack is a bit go-ey.

  1. 10m (20) Up to gear, step left and up into line then follow line up left, laybacking at will. When it's all over you can step left to a small stance on the arete.

  2. 15m (20) Climb the fantastic arete. Pull through first roof on left and then up to and through second roof. You can scramble off left from the top of the first pitch, or from below the final roof.

Later ascents have confirmed that they were on really excellent drugs. The climbing is rubbish.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 25m, 2
20 Shattered

The R-leaning sickle.

Start: Start on the L side of the orange/red face.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Trad 16m
20 Delicacy

The thin crack.

Start: Start at the R end of the wall.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kim Carrigan, 1978

Trad 8m

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