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Charity Buttress

29

Seasonality

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Description

The low-angled wall downhill and R of Wailing Wall.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Charity Buttress Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

As for Z then up L onto flake and up.

Start: Start as for Z.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Suzie Frost, 1993

The crack up the front.

Start: Start at a small outcrop just L of the main 'Charity' Wall face.

FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987

FA: Goose & Rhi Taylor

The line starting just left of Charity

FA: Gordon & Heather Bedford, 1975

Up the crack.

Start: Start under the L crack on the main face.

FA: Bruce & Keith Lockwood, 1968

Crack line between Charity and Mercy. Up crack over bulge. Protect top at flake and a big reach to the right will give you the bolt on mercy before finishing the slab.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Michael Battaini, Jun 2016

Climb the line between 'Charity' and 'Hope Variant Start' to overlap. Step right 1 metre then straight up, finishing up nice clean slab past bolt. Apparently 'Great Pissing Ledges' finishes on the left of the upper slab though it's a bit hard to tell that from the descriptions and topo.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Maureen Little, 7 Jul 2011

Ewww, hopefully the name is hypothetical! You need to see a urologist if your bladder can't hold on for a 14m route. Between 'Charity' and 'Hope' are 2 other cracks that stop at a small roof. Up the right hand of these cracks to roof, continue up through overlap and up slab. Note since doing this climb the Mentz Tempest guide to Arapiles mentions a climb called 'Hope Variant Start'. 'Great Pissing Ledges' is a direct continuation of Hope Variant Start which remains completely independent of Hope.

FA: Deb Churches & Mark Witham, 1996

Between 'Charity' and 'Hope' are 2 other cracks that stop at a small roof. Up the right-hand crack and step right into 'Hope'.

Bottomless crack 3m R of Charity at the R crack.

FA: Rob Taylor & Jerry Grandage, 1968

Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap.

Start: Start between H & F.

FA: Keith Egerton & Jim Grellis, 1975

Up the thin crack, with a small overhang halfway.

Start: Start 6m R of Hope.

FA: Jerry Grandage & Rob Taylor, 1968

The slabby arete just right of the big chimney left of 'Prudity'.

FA: Smith & G. Hoxley, 2000

Up the intermittant flakes, mostly terrible sounding, and a sea of moss in the middle of the slab between Debauchery and Prudity. You probably don't need to climb it.

FA: Wendy Eden, 26 Oct 2018

Up the L-facing corner.

Start: Start just R of a chimney which is on the R side of a mossy wall to the R of F.

FA: Ray Lassman & Keith Lockwood, 1981

The groove then directly over the bulge.

Start: Start at the next line R of P.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981

Ramble up the low angled buttress.

Start: Start at the next buttress R from T.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981

Diagonal crack.

Start: Start just R of P.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981

Climb the crack, step left on to face and up.

Start: Scramble up past 'Treachery' to next buttress.

FA: Pete & Meg Holmes., 2001

Finishes further left than the original

FA: Peter Holmes & Phil Da Costa, 2003

Climb crack, step out right onto face. Climb through roof and up.

Start: Start as for Gabriel's Oboe.

FA: Pete & Meg Holmes, 2001

Climb the face to small roof, traverse left and over the roof on good rock.

Start: Just right and up from 'Charity Buttress' is a small wall.

FA: Pete Holmes & Phil DaCosta, 2003

A separate buttress 10m right of Purity and approximately 7 metres left of Heatherbell. Climb face , using the crack at 8m for gear and holds. Up to large ledge at 12m, step right 1m to gain crack with gear for the crux move to summit.

FA: Pete Holmes & Patrick Eastment, 7 Mar 2014

A separate buttress 12m right of Purity, 3m right of Beguiled. Appears to be rib on left edge of buttress with a bit of orange on it. Climb the face then move to the arete, through the overhang and easily on.

FA: Peter Holmes & Craig Mildwaters, 2010

Up low angled face 2m right of 'Dignity' to summit.

FA: Pete Holmes & James Best, 7 Mar 2014

A separate buttress 15m right of Purity and 3m right of Clemency. Climb the most left hand line. (Most likely same buttress as Heatherbell ). A low angled climb with the crux being the first moves off the ground on grey rock. Requires RPs to protect the initial moves,

FA: Pete Holmes & Mike Totterdell, 26 Feb 2012

The RH line up the small orange buttress.

Start: Start 20m R of 'Treachery'.

FA: Gordon & Heather Bedford, 1993

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Start on the orange rock facing into Central Gully. Up the diagonal crack to the arete then up.

FA: Peter Holmes & Tim Proctor, 8 Dec 2011

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Up the middle of the face, moving left of the small nose.

FA: Peter Holmes & Meg Holmes, 8 Apr 2012

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