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description

Great sustained moves up intermittent pods in the crack and directly through the small roof. Beware a slight runout at about 6m which doesn't leave much room for error.

Start: Start just R of the pillar/pedestal.

© (willmonks)

Route history

13 Oct 1974First ascent: Chris Dewhirst & Keith Lockwood
Mar 1975First free ascent: Henry Barber

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.76064, 141.84455

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

22 Assigned grade
22 ** ACA Route Register
22 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
22 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
22 RockGUIDE: Victoria
23 [23 - 23] ++ grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

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F
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A
M
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 86 from 113 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 27
Flash 3
Red point 26
Tick 19
Pink point 5
Top rope 14
Attempt 49
Target 6

Comment keywords

crazy pockets technical roof easy fiddly crack hands stout rest feet epic flake runout tricky committing fall sustained hard tough crux strenuous pumped sandbag desperate great nice lovely cool exciting good super brilliant beautiful fantastic fun rad stoked incredible sweet amazing awesome classic

Activity

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