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Routes in Dunes Buttress for selected grade

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Grade Route Gear style Popularity
20 Scarecrow

Climb Arab p3 for 4m then step L and up. Stay out of Saracen and traverse R along the lip of the roof, to join a thin crack, straight on up the face, and take the roof by the R. The original route has a poxy independent first pitch starting 10m L of Saracen but you're far better off approaching via Arab as described.

Start at Arab's second belay.

FA: Chris Baxter & Russell Crow, 1984

Trad 28m
20 African Night Flight

Go R under roof to juggy exit. Start on the ledge above Icecream Man.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1983

Trad 15m

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