Originally established at 25 by taking a breather on the half-height ledge on the opposite side of the gully!

To reach the start of the route, scramble up the wall opposite 'Dreadnought', to the big chockstone in the depths of the gully.

Up short corner, then to the arete past bolt, then up and left to thin crack, then through overhangs to bolt, before moving up into left-facing corner.

© (willmonks)

Route history

1991First ascent: Lincoln Shepherd, Chris Shepherd & Philby
Jan 1998First ascent: Done without stepping off by Dave Jones.



Lat/Lon: -36.75785, 141.84379

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

26 R Assigned grade
25 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
27 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
27 R ACA Route Register


Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles


Mega Classic
Very Good
Don't Bother

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