The shenanigans on the first ascent suggest they were certainly consuming something forbidden...
Start: Start 2m L of Semi-detached.
25m (23) Up wall, traverse right to gain diagonal flake sytem and follow this to ledge. There is protection but it won't stop a groundfall from the crux.
20m (26) Scary face with fragile rock to crux past 2 bolts. Apparently you need double thumb sprags.
|1988||First ascent: James Falla, Dave Mudie (alt), Kieran Loughran, Richard Smith & late 80s|
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|26 X||Assigned grade|
|26||A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite|
|26 X||ACA Route Register|
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
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