Help
1 35m
2 40m
3 15m
4 40m

description

Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.

  1. 35m (10) Up surprisingly tricky left facing flake/corner (consider starting up Dunes instead if this might give you grief). Continue up slabs above and belay below chimney around the corner.

  2. 40m (9) Easily up chimney. Step across the void from top of chimney onto the face proper and continue up to large ledge (the Oasis).

  3. 15m (1) Crawl R through hole, belay beneath chockstone in chimney on the other side.

  4. 40m (9) Pull up onto the chockstone with difficulty. Follow the deep crackline above to the top (or for a slightly easier finish trend a bit left for the last bit).

Route history

Aug 1968First ascent: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75759, 141.84401

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

10 Assigned grade
10,9,1,9 Francois Pieterse
10 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
10 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
15 [15 - 16] ++ grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 81 from 590 ratings.

Difficulty - 10

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

10

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 282
Flash 13
Solo 61
Red point 31
Tick 243
Pink point 1
Attempt 8
Target 18

Comment keywords

hands awkward offwidth slippery adventurous polished jugs crazy bail feet traverse arete dry epic shady chimney layback steep easy face rest flake crack bad interesting reachy sunny short cruisy scary tricky fall committing exposed fantastic exciting rad awesome amazing enjoyable classic beautiful lovely brilliant incredible super fabulous perfect good pleasant fun sweet nice stoked great cool crux desperate challenging difficult hard crank strenuous solid struggle

Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Share this

Photos Browse all photos

Upload a photo of route

Activity

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文