1 35m
2 40m
3 15m
4 40m


Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.

  1. 35m (10) Up surprisingly tricky left facing flake/corner (consider starting up Dunes instead if this might give you grief). Continue up slabs above and belay below chimney around the corner.

  2. 40m (9) Easily up chimney. Step across the void from top of chimney onto the face proper and continue up to large ledge (the Oasis).

  3. 15m (1) Crawl R through hole, belay beneath chockstone in chimney on the other side.

  4. 40m (9) Pull up onto the chockstone with difficulty. Follow the deep crackline above to the top (or for a slightly easier finish trend a bit left for the last bit).

Route history

Aug 1968First ascent: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley



Lat/Lon: -36.75759, 141.84401

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

10 Assigned grade
10 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
10 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
10,9,1,9 Francois Pieterse


Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles





Mega Classic
Very Good
Don't Bother

Overall quality 81 from 665 ratings.

Difficulty - 10

Soft Touch

Based on 26 ratings.

Suggested Grade


Based on 26 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 362
Flash 21
Red point 114
Tick 287
Pink point 1
Attempt 9
Target 18

Comment keywords

steep reachy awkward crack feet easy interesting jugs chossy layback offwidth polished flake shady rest cruisy hands slippery bad traverse epic chimney arete short sunny crazy face adventurous bail dry nice awesome sweet rad cool great fantastic lovely beautiful classic fabulous super brilliant fun perfect incredible exciting enjoyable pleasant amazing good stoked tricky exposed committing scary fall solid hard strenuous tired difficult challenging desperate struggle crux crank

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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