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1 35m
2 40m
3 15m
4 40m

description

Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.

  1. 35m (10) Up surprisingly tricky left facing flake/corner (consider starting up Dunes instead if this might give you grief). Continue up slabs above and belay below chimney around the corner.

  2. 40m (9) Easily up chimney. Step across the void from top of chimney onto the face proper and continue up to large ledge (the Oasis).

  3. 15m (1) Crawl R through hole, belay beneath chockstone in chimney on the other side.

  4. 40m (9) Pull up onto the chockstone with difficulty. Follow the deep crackline above to the top (or for a slightly easier finish trend a bit left for the last bit).

Route history

Aug 1968First ascent: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.75759, 141.84401

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

10 Assigned grade
10 ** ACA Route Register
10,9,1,9 Francois Pieterse
10 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
10 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
15 [15 - 16] ++ grAId

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 79 from 485 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 243
Flash 12
Red point 27
Solo 43
Tick 182
Pink point 1
Attempt 8
Target 18

Comment keywords

desperate difficult hard solid crux strenuous challenging jugs interesting easy sunny layback hands awkward steep crazy slippery face epic traverse polished offwidth reachy crack cruisy rest bail shady flake short arete feet adventurous dry chimney bad fantastic good great awesome brilliant fabulous cool perfect stoked incredible nice rad pleasant classic sweet fun amazing enjoyable beautiful super lovely exciting fall committing tricky scary exposed

Activity

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