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Comic Strip Wall

14

Seasonality

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Description

The wall about 60m south of Colosseum Wall.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Colosseum Wall Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

10 minutes walk from the camping ground.

Descent notes

Rap anchor in the middle of the wall or scramble off L for the routes from Sausage of the Century - Popeye.

Scramble off R for Asteroids and the routes to its right.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Bouldery start then L into the line.

Start at the vague line towards the L end of the wall.

FA: Jon Muir, Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1981

A pair of weaknesses lead to a bulge, which succumbs to a layback/mantle. Start just R of Sausage Of The Century.

FA: Mark Barnett & Rod Young, 1981

A miniscule direct middle to Oogie Boogie. Straight under the DRB anchor.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 2 Nov 2015

In the same vein as Je Sui Un Legend, links all the easiest bits of the existing routes to create a conceptual megaclassic. Unfortunately the climbing is only one star.

Start up Oogie Boogie, go diagonally right to join the top of Asteroids and finish up it. Up the slab (a touch runout) and right up the corner to finish. Its possible to keep traversing from the final corner/groove to the chains of Hyperspace Bypass (below top of cliff).

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 7 Oct 2015

Steep jugs, crack, face. Start R of OB, just L of overhangs, beneath small flake on bulge.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981

Past the alarming jammed blocks forming a roof, R and up weakness past ledge to top.

Start under the jammed blocks in the overhangs R of 'The Wizard Of Id'.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Barnett, 1981

Overhang, mantle, then weakness on R.

Start: Start just R of 'Popeye' at the obvious V.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1981

Start right of Asteroids, head up to small V in overhang below bolts. Follow bolts through bulges, then 2 bolts trending right through head wall to shared anchor with 'Hyperspace Bypass'. Take a small rack to supplement bolts, including microwires.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 17 Oct 2015

Up short corner 2m right of 'Vogon Destructor Fleet' to bolts, then up right line of bolts in head wall, finishing left to shared anchor with VDF.

Take a light rack including a 3 camalot and microwires to supplement bolts.

Shallow corner then R through bulges.

Start at bushes R of 'Asteroids'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1981

The orange flake start, bolted by peter stebbins. Doubtful it's been done.

The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes.

Start at short black flake 10m R of 'Hyperspace'. Flake to grey coloured RB, L to pockets (#4 friend), then R up flake to tough finish.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

The original start climbed a tree, which since fell down. Now there is a bolt and you need to batman the start.

Start at the next flake R of 'Letting Go'. Batman, then layback with difficulty up weakness past another bolt. Originally given 24 with a rumour it was hard for the grade.

An independent right hand start which goes free from the ground has been bolted, still a closed project.

FA: Steve Howden, Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982

Originally 26 in the best of Law sandbagging tradition. Quite good, and not particularly slimy. Reachy though, looks way harder below about 6' reach.

Start R of 'Failing New Romantic'. 2 bolts up the seam, step L, then finish past a couple of fixed wires.

FA: Mike Law & Paul Hoskins, 1982

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