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Description

Colosseum Wall is the last significant outcrop as you head South (L along the cliff line).

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Colosseum Wall Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Approach

10 minutes walk from the camping ground. Follow the track S (L along the cliff line).

Descent notes

Descend via the rap anchor at the top of Spasticus.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right.

FA: Martin Grullich, 1986

Grunt your way up the offwidth crack on the wall around left from 'The Rack'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Alec Campbell & Bruce Osborne, 1966

Start at the arete just L of 'Christian Crack'. Up the corner on the arete, trend right past FH, before landing on the ledge. From here you work your way back right, and the theory is that you finish up the arete, but inevitably the holds lead you further right, such that it feels contrived to avoid finishing up 'Christian Crack'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Excellent sustained climbing up the line with great pro. A borderline classic. There are two striking cracks on the wall on the left side of Colosseum Wall - this is the left one.

Ann Pauligk's 1977 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

FFA: Joe Friend, 1974

People rave about this being a brilliant jamming testpiece, when in fact its a one move wonder ... so ticking it doesn't prove you're a jamming maestro. It's a very nice little climb though. The crack 3m R of 'Christian Crack'.

FA: John Ewbank, 1968

Start just R of 'The Rack' and go up past the BR.

FA: Russell Chudleigh, 1984

The scrubby corner.

A low bolt then try not to die above that.

Start: Start between 'Spasticus' & 'Nero'.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1981

The crack requires a bit of jamming.

Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'.

FA: Philip Stranger & Andrew Smith, 1966

The steep corner.

Start 6m R of Nero.

FA: Fred Langenhorst & Bruno Zielke, 1969

FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1977

Arete with poor pro.

Start 3m R of 'Petronius'

FA: Peter Martin & Mark Savage, 1990

The layback corner.

Start 1m R of 'Petro-Fy'.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1969

The corner then finish R.

Start 1m R of 'Tom Thumb'.

FA: Peter Martin, Rob Tymms & Mark Savage, 1990

LH crack in narrow buttress, then R to a pair of thin cracks.

Start beneath the roadside-face of the buttress.

FA: Paul Gillis & John Bowen, 1970

The provided description is as follows: "Offwidth crack on left side of main nose of 'Colosseum Wall'. Not necessarily that new!" This sounds like it should be near 'Castration'. But how an 8m route could be in this vicinity is a bit baffling. Also it sounds like it might be left of 'Castration', but that area is already pretty packed with routes and they're well harder than grade 12. So, an improved description of this would be nice.

FA: FRA Biggus Dickus, 1996

The line.

Start around R from 'Castration', on the wall facing The Pines, at the initial.

FA: Paul Gillis, John Bowen & Peter Lindorff, 1970

Try to stay out of the chimney, then finish up the crack on the R. The direct finish has also been done by Peter Lindorff.

Start just R of the descent chimney.

FA: Peter Lindorff, Colin Lindorff & Paul Gillis, 1970

The wall right of 'Flavius Maximus'. This was also written up as 'Tribute To God' in the April 2009 Argus.

Over block to undercling, then straight up wall to top. Protection in crack on left of wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1996

The usual claim of those who don't...

Start 8m R of FM. To break (wire on left), then right to bulge.

FA: Sam Blainey & Andrew White, 1991

The bottomless corner.

Start 2m R of 'I've Got A Big Honker'.

FA: Julie Tulloch & Bill Andrews, 1975

I assume its the grey wall between The Martyr wall and the Welease Witchard wall.

FA: Graeme "Chapman" Jones & Eric "Idle" Jones, 1996

5m right of 'Welease Wodger' is a small buttress. This takes scrappy line up left.

FA: Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1996

The right line.

FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1996

Up the wall 1m right of corner 10m right of 'Welease Bwian'. Continue up crack from ledge at 3/4 height.

FA: Hoskins, G. Jones & Smith, 1996

The jam crack 10m right of 'People Called Romans, They Go The 'Ouse'.

FA: Biggus Dickus, 1996

The nose on the buttress 8m right of 'Incontinentia Buttocks'. Start on the right side of arete, then up and over nose.

FA: Smith, Hoskins, G. Jones & Ed Irvine, 1996

The rightward leaning crack around right of 'Roaming Knows'.

FA: G. Jones & Irvine, 1996

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Activity

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