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Climbing in this area is closed.

Access: Rock Art Discovered here.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago

description

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped.

Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

Route history

10 Sep 1965First ascent: Ian Guild & Peter Smith
Aug 1974First free ascent: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend

Warnings

3 Dec 2019 Warning Access: Rock Art Discovered here.

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.76684, 141.85182

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

20 Assigned grade
20 OZ Rock
20 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
20 RockGUIDE: Victoria
20 R ** ACA Route Register
20 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
20 Josh LeBlanc
21 [20 - 21] + grAId

access issues

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

inherited from Arapiles

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 77 from 319 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 62
Flash 14
Red point 39
Tick 126
Pink point 6
Top rope 159
Attempt 99
Target 11

Comment keywords

crux tough hard solid difficult pumped sustained strenuous struggle superb awesome classic perfect fun pleasant great brilliant rad fantastic ripper classy beautiful nice wicked lovely good enjoyable amazing stoked exciting hands epic bail slippery short polished crap fingers easy feet roof reachy crack rest sharp runout scary tricky fall

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