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Climbing in this area is closed.

Access: Rock Art Discovered here.

On Tuesday (3/12/19), Barengi Gadjin Land Council (BGLC) informed The Rockclimbing Roundtable (just in advance of public release) that rock art has been rediscovered at Declaration Crag (also known as Taylor’s rock), at Mt Arapiles.

Temporary Restricitons are in place from December 4th while the “Traditional Owners decide what they would like to do with this discovery and how to manage the site”.

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago

description

The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place.

Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.

Route history

25 Apr 1966First ascent: Rowan Webb, Dave Parkhurst & Kevin Sheehy

Warnings

3 Dec 2019 Warning Access: Rock Art Discovered here.

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.76684, 141.85182

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

16 R Assigned grade
15 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
16 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
16 R * ACA Route Register
16 [15 - 17] grAId

access issues

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

inherited from Arapiles

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
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A
M
J
J
A
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O
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 59 from 257 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 105
Flash 16
Solo 3
Red point 16
Tick 116
Pink point 2
Top rope 88
Attempt 9
Target 2

Comment keywords

sweet nice fun awesome pleasant good lovely cool enjoyable great fantastic crux sustained tough sandbag solid difficult tricky easy technical fiddly face cruisy short awkward interesting arete balancy

Activity

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