Fang Buttress




The large outcrop behind the Plaque and in front of Ali's.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles,Fang Buttress Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent notes

Crawl through the hole at the top of the buttress (opposite Ali's) then walk down.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Straight up with terrible pro. Toproping recommended.

This looks like it has 2 or 3 bolts now?

Start: In the middle of the grey wall L of O-W.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1981

Follow the BRs.

Start: Start just L of O-W.

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

A tricky start, then it's easier to the halfway ledge (at which point you still have no pro). Follow the weakness just L of the R arete of the wall.

Start: Start around the back of 'Fang Buttress', just across the gap from Ali's.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1975

This length is surely overstated. Anyway, up the unprotected start of O-W to the ledge. Now go R and up arete to a ledge then do the top overhang.

Start: Start as for O-W.

FA: Keith Egerton, Phil Wilkins & Jane Wilkinson, 1983

The arete right of Orc-Wood with 2 bolts

FA: Paul Deacon, 2009

Take the middle of the face between 'Vaunted' and 'Kamikaze', with one bolt.

Start: Start just L of K.

FA: Jim Thomas & Chris Shepherd, 1983

Worth doing? Yes. Worth a star? hmm...

Start: Start in the middle of the slim S face of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor, 1968

Up the middle of the face between K and DA.

Start: Start just R of K.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

Trend up R almost to the arete, then up past a piton to an interesting finish.

Start: Start as for TO.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Barry Young & Simon Parsons, 1978

Climb the arete with one bolt and not much else pro. Deviating into XI briefly at half height to avoid the widow maker loose flake is sensible (but if you're leading this you're probably a bit short on sense).

Start: Start under the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress', between DA and XI.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

The gear is good from the crack up, but below that...

Start: Start 5m L of Fang, just R of the SE arete of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Mike Law & Peter Watson, 1976

Originally given 24 and one bolt - would have been very bold getting to the bolt. There are two ways to do it, some people find it easier to climb left of the bolts.

Retrobolted by the first ascentionist.

Start: Start as for 'Placements'.

FA: Roland Foster, 1982

Climb easy corner to ledge, then step right and ascend right-trending crack line/weakness via a series of sidepulls and gastons. Powerfully sustained at the grade and bombproof gear. Finish easily up right arete of the XI face (left of Fang). Alternative opinion: the gear is not bombproof! Small, fiddly gear through crux with decking potential if you can't place it. Good gear exists at the start and in the top diagonal.

A block came off the start of the hard section, not sure if this has changed the route.

Start: Start 1.5m L of F at the corner in the small alcove.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1980

A favourite among those who like chest-beating about whether you can hand jam. To the rest of us it's a poxy one move wonder.

Start: Start under the dominant chimney on the L side of the E (main) face of 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Baxter, 1965

Obvious direct start (2 FHs) into 'Strolling', joining that route at its crux.

Start: 5m R of Fang and 5m L of 'Strolling'.

FA: Gordon Poulteney

Up SDS then head R past a new FH on the bulge (which nearly retrobolts Strolling) and finish up 'Ergonomics'.

Start: As for SDS.

FFA: Gordon Poultney, 2005

Up the steep flake, traverse 5m L under the bulge to a bolt, then over the bulge and up. Pro is ok but quite tricky to get in on lead.

Start: Start 8m R of Fang.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Original climbed bolt free but now it is possible to clip 2 of the bolts of Ergonomics.

Start as for Strolling then up and right from loose block past the broken remnants of an old PR (there's a good sneaky wire instead or clip bolt). Now pull over the bulge (again try to ignore the bolt) and trend L up the face to join the finish of Strolling.

Protection is adequate even without the bolts.

Be very careful of the massive every-so-slightly-loose block down low - you'll need to pull on it, but do not put gear behind it.

FA: Chris Shepherd

Recently re-bolted.

Excellent long-overlooked addition that incorporates a direct finish to Strolling RHV. Direct line up the centre right of the buttress that would have been completely uncontroversial had it pre-dated Strolling RHV.

Sustained climbing leads up and slightly left through a bulge to a technical crux. After the 4th bolt, continue straight up on blowable slopey pockets. Do not traverse off R here if you want to bathe in the social recognition of a legitimate ascent.

Start: 3m R of Strolling.

FA: Dave Jones 2005; Dave Jones

There's 1 or 2 old bolt holes 1 to 2m to the right dating from an unknown attempt on this great nose of rock. Start 4m L of 'Mantis'. It's almost a sport route but you need a few med. cams before the bolts.

FA: Dave Jones, 2005

Wagalak's chains unfortunately were a retrobolt of this route. But on the upside, if you lower off the chains this is possibly the best wet weather 19 at 'Arapiles'. Start as for 'Mantis' and climb it until 2m below the roof. Now traverse left along the break for 8m to the arête (where you will now find Wagalak's chains). Finish straight up the nice cracked arête. Unless you like ropedrag, use double ropes or split it into two pitches at the chains.

FA: Will Monks & Andrew Duckworth, 2004

Climbable even in the eponymous of the driest routes at Araps! Start as for 'Mantis' and climb it for about 6m. Now step L onto the steep orange left wall and up this over the bulge (grade 23 climbing with dicky gear) to the break (the traverse on Mandible). Continue up Mandible or Preying.

FA: Will Monks & Peter Monks, 2009

Up Mantis to roof, start traverse L as for Mandible, but halfway to arete blast straight up orange wall and through steepest part of juggy top bulge

FA: Will Monks & Andrew Duckworth, 2004

As for 'Mantis' to the recess under the roof, now take the left end of the overhang and up the corner above, rejoining 'Mantis' near the top. There is a piton somewhere on this.

Start: Start as for 'Mantis'.

FA: Phillip McMillan & Rod Young, 1979

Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left.

Start: At the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang.

FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull, 1965

Up to overhang at 4m, go L under it, then up. Has been done direct through the overhang at 21, by Col Reece, Greg Moore, 1979.

Start: Start 4m R of 'Mantis'.

FA: Mike Law & Glenn Tempest, 1976

Up slots to overhang, step L, then up wall trending R to gain arete. Skip the top overhang by traversing off left.

Start: Start 1m R of DB.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch & Roger Murphy, 1976

Instead of going L at small roof, step R around it and climb the R side of arete. (Belay on ledge to avoid rope drag.) The arete soon breaks out above the gully between 'Fang Buttress' and 'Bard Buttress'. Continue to summit of 'Fang Buttress'.

Start: Start as for Fear Of Praying.

FA: Cameron Millsom, Simon White, Hillary Little & Patrick Over, 1997

Traverse left towards arete and then swing back right and up till arete can be reached again.

Start: Start left of 'Pulpy Kidney'

FA: Hoskins, Bride & Wilkins, 1995

Stick clip bolt then up flake to jugs. At 2nd BR you can go straight up bulges or go L to flake and arete.

Start: Start by walking around the R (north) end of 'Fang Buttress' and going 20m up the gully behind.

FA: Mike Law & Steve Howden, 1982

Layback a pin-scarred flake with poor pro, then directly up wall above.

Start: Start 5m R of PK.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1965

Up crack following big holds to ledge then take headwall.

Start: Start 5 metres up right of Wizard below short crack thingy.

FA: Smith, Pritchard & Hoskins, 1995

Not much pro.

Start: Start below left arete of Orc-Wood Wall.

FA: Hoskins, Smith & Pritchard, 1995

The full description provided is "Right of Mantle". Hmmm. Maybe a repeat of Downward Bound? Maybe somewhere else entirely? Who knows.

FA: Richard Smith, 2006

Not clear whether this is L or R of 'Thibenzol'.

Start: Takes the next pinnacle uphill (R) of Wizard.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 1995

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