Routes as trad in PB Gully

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Showing all 19 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
17 Black Legend

Thin seam on black streak at left end of wall, using left arete where necessary.

FA: Glen Donohue & Peter Cunningham, 1987

Trad 20m
10 Eddie Mabo

Starts just right of Black Legend at the right-slanting line. This could be the ‘’obvious grade 6 crack’’ mentioned in the Black Legend description. Climb the right-slanting line for a few metres, step left at horizontal break and continue up the centre of the wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tibor Janos, Kieran Loughran & Kieran Loughran, 1 Aug 2018

Trad 25m
11 Banjo Opera

Climb the unassuming but nice wall between Eddie Mabo and Is The Pope A Catholic.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Tibor Janos & Keith Lockwood, 1 Aug 2018

Trad 25m
12 Is The Pope a Catholic

Line 4 metres right of Grade 6 crack.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Glenn Donohue, 1987

Trad 15m
16 Papal Bull

Climb the seam up the middle of the clean wall right of Is The Pope A Catholic.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tibor Janos & Kieran Loughran, 1 Aug 2018

Trad 25m
14 Journey to the Centre of the Earth

Companion route to The Land That Time Forgot. Take some biggish cams. Approach by abseil.

Bridge the deep-set corner a few metres left of The Land That Time Forgot. Exit right and continue up the pleasant easy crack in the headwall. This crack is clearly visible from the Telstra tower.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 14 Sep 2018

Trad 30m
15 The Land That Time Forgot

One of the remotest, most primeval parts of 'Arapiles'. A rewarding adventure. Good climbing too. It's clearly visible from the Telstra tower - the big grey wall across the valley. Approach by abseil.

Skirt clifftop around left (northish) to head of 'PB Gully'. Down gully system to the main wall.

Steeply into right-facing corner which is followed until a terrace appears up on the right. Don't be tempted. Instead, step left and up centre of wall, finishing over central overhang and headwall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2005

Trad 35m
25 Temporary Imbalance

Thin flake at upper end of main section of gully. Hard move right to ledge then easy climbing.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 20m
25 Blockade

Start as for 'Impasse', traverse 4m R, go up 2m, then traverse back 3m! Now go up via a desperate crux, then up steep wall on brilliant rock and holds. Chain on ledge above topout.

Alternatively, clip the bolt on the direct start, batman up and head R into the crux. Less hassle and still 25.

Originally done with very high side runners to the L of the crux.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd, 1982

Trad 30m
Blockade DS

Open project past a bolt. A couple of pretty hard moves.

Mixed trad 20m, 1
24 Impasse

Wandery but good climbing. Start at a pair of horizontal breaks 4 metres right of 'Temporary Imbalance'. Up to second horizontal, traverse R 4m, go up 2m then diagonally right (not straight up the seam) and up the concavity on pockets and blind holds. Diagonally left to finish. Chain on wall above topout.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Trad 20m
25 R Flattered and Slightly Curious

Start up PB, at the horizontal go diagonally left and through the bulge to join Impasse at horizontals. Using some of the crux holds on Impasse, move up and slightly right on pockets and then move left and up to finish. Chains on ledge above. Probably the best of the 24s/25s in the gully, though Blockade is very good too.

The "R" comes from the scary start of PB, the rest of the route is well protected.

FA: Ben Wiessner, Douglas Hockly & Jack Jane, Oct 2015

Trad 20m
23 PB

The dominant line on the wall is sustained and has just enough small but good protection on the difficult start - which is the crux.

Rings above this also service Tangent.

FA: Tim Beaman, 1976

Trad 23m
23 R PB Direct Start

Scary up the shallow corner and thin wall to join PB

FA: Mark Moorhead

Trad 25m
25 PB Direct Finish

How hard is this really? Start up PB and continue straight up past two impossible moves.

FA: Stuart Williams & Dave Nelson, 1989

Trad 23m
25 Heavy Horses

Nathan Hoette spent 2 days on this. Even Malcolm Matheson didn't onsight it. It's a shame this has one of the most holdless bums at Arapiles in it - the rest is quite nice 22.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 25m
24 Angles Up

Devious line starting as for 'Tangent'. Up through the bulge (crux) past RP's / small wires then R to seam just L of Tangent. Up and L to next break, then R and through roof.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Trad 20m
19 Tangent

Start up easy grey crack 2 metres right of 'Heavy Horses'. Traverse right then follow short, left-leaning bottomless crack and head diagonally right to arete.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1979

Trad 20m
23 Self Contradictory

Tangent direct. Reach problem 3 metres right of start of Tangent. Finish direct through the roof as for Angles Up.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Nick Plishko, 1982

Trad 20m

Showing all 19 routes.

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