Routes as trad in Vandal Area

Searching in:

Route filters:

Ascent filters:


Other filters:

  • Weather
  • Water access
  • Legality
  • Walk in time
  • Walk in angle
  • Descent
  • Style
  • Condition
  • Aspect
  • Vegetation
  • Steepness
  • Rock type
Sort by: Bulk edit (max 100)

Showing all 14 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
14 The Viragoes

Has a few good sections. Takes left arete, starting at little shallow corner on right, then slab to orange crack, to cave, finishing on jugs.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Heather Phillips, 1992

Trad 50m
23 Nature's Trip
1 23 20m
2 23 15m

'Cos it's next to "The Verge". Gets into some pretty sick territory. Worth doing if you're in the area.

The second pitch (an exciting roof) can also be climbed as a good second pitch for "The Verge".

  1. Start up 'The Verge', but instead of stepping right into the scoop ,go straight up through the thin bulge passing a fixed wire on your left. , keep heading up easy orange face to bulge passing a FH to jugs out right and up to break, From there, power straight up the thin bouldery face and onto easy ground up to a high chain rap anchor.

  2. The second pitch starts several meters to the right of the chain anchors, (trad anchor available) below an orange column with a FH. Up this to a white scoop under the roof FH. Up and out left along the pumpy lip traverse passing a FH. then over the lip and up to chain rap anchor. Rappel is 30 + m ! FA Robert Mudie & Muki Woods Alt

Set: muki woods

FFA: Robert Mudie & muki woods

FA: Robert Mudie, muki woods, Ben Sheppard & Patrick McGovern, 3 Sep 2017

Mixed trad 35m, 2, 4
24 The Verge

Start just up right of The Viragoes. Straight up and through thin crack in bulge, move right into large, guano-stained, V-scoop. Bridge up scoop to roof, past FH, swing left along lip and up short crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd. First bulge was initially climbed as Threshold by Rod Young & Mark Moorhead., 1979

Mixed trad 20m, 1
15 The Vagabond

Somewhat disparaged but takes in some interesting country. The traverse on the first pitch is nice but poorly protected.

  1. 30m (10) Diagonally right up the ramp until one can traverse back left to the guano-stained V-scoop on 'The Verge'. Continue left to the nose of the buttress and follow it on jugs to the anchor of The Viragoes.

  2. 15m (8) The crack above then up a short, juggy wall to terrace the overhanging arete. There's an ancient , unnecessary bolt.

  3. 30m (10) Climb the corner between the overhanging "Hearse Aretes" then chimney to terrace (Check out photos of Hearse Arete at Gardom's Edge, UK to clarify the description).

  4. 7m (15) At the back of the terrace are 2 corners [this is about a 10m walk from the top of the P3]. The steep right-hand corner is good fun and quite technical. The one on the left is probably easier but doesn't look as good. This pitch can also be avoided by scrambling right and down and around to the rap anchor at the top of Hum Terrace.

FA: John Moore, Chris Baxter & Phillip Stranger, 1965

Trad 82m, 4
17 Big Silver Rocket

Up diagonal line right until short corner on right of the phallus. Up this behind Phallus exiting around side. Now mount phallus and ejaculate onself through roof. Continue upwards to distinct orange mini-scoop with crack through middle. Don't escape right or left but bridge through roof to belay. Finish up Sweet Surrender's second pitch or do Where's Merilyn?

Start: 3m Right of the Verge.

FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham Deb Churches & Mark Witham Deb Churches

Trad 20m
16 Where's Merilyn?

Start: 4m right of big silver rocket

  1. -m (16) up mossy slab moving right to short crack. Up to rib. Climb this to steepness where move left on horizontals to belay ledge.

  2. -m (10) Continue up to good horizontal. Traverse 5-6m left on good holds & good pro until you can step up easily. Continue up to good ledge with bolt (Vagabond's belay).

  3. -m (17) Step right and continue up the end of 'Sweet Surrender'.

FA: Mark Witham, Michael Hartman, Deb Churches & Deb Churches

Trad 85m, 3
18 Sweet Surrender

A pretty good route but escapable in parts.

Begin just left of the big tree.

  1. 25m (18) Undercling to start then up flakes and cracks to big ledge.

  2. 35m (17) Go left into lowest orange scoop. Tackle this on the right and into smaller scoop above, then up past another two bulges.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983

Trad 60m, 2
22 Comb-over

Because it's thin. Start up 'Sweet Surrender' and move R to below orange wall. Straight up past two bolts then direct up juggy nose above to ledge.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Rebecca Hopkins, Nov 2014

Mixed trad 25m, 2
17 Assistance Required Direct Start

Rigt of Sweet Surrender's first pitch, climb to roof, move right around this and up to 'Vandal' terrace.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983

Trad 20m
20 Assistance Required

Pretty orange wall left of Vandal's main corner.

Go up wall to scoop; left here and up.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Peter Newman, 1979

Trad 25m
22 Puzzlin' Evidence

Wonderful direct finish to 'Assistance Required'. Originally climbed Sweet Surrender to the second scoop and then moved right and up wall to high central scoop. Many (most?) parties climb Assistance Required into high central scoop. From the scoop, go straight up steep wall past small cam on lovely rock and over bulge.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

Trad 25m
17 Vandal

Used to be vastly undergraded at 14 though older masters of the thrutch maintain that the grade was OK.

The route originally started up the diagonal ramp from 'Vagabond' but noone does that now.

Start in the gully just above the tree, directly below the big orange corner.

  1. 15m (13) Pull onto wall and climb groove to large ledge at base of corner.

  2. 15m (14) The great corner leads to another ledge.

  3. 15m (17) Hard moves into the undercut corner and bridge to the top.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, Jerremy Grandage. Pitch 1 : Ian Thomas, Andrew Bowman & David Shirra., 1977

Trad 45m, 3
23 Another Route

Another inspiring route name.

  1. 15m (23) Middle of bulging wall right of Vandal's second pitch and just left of the final bit of 'Swallows and Amazons'.

  2. 15m (23) Swing onto smooth left wall of 'Vandal', climbing midway between that climb and Puzzlin' Evidence.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

Trad 30m, 2
17 Swallows and Amazons

Originally done with two pitches, the rap anchor at the end of the first pitch turns it into a good single pitch climb. It also comes into the shade reasonably early.

Start at flake 5 metres up and right of Vandal. Layback the flake left then climb the right wall of Vandal. Ignore Vandal's first belay and continue steeply up crack in right wall to ledge and bolt anchors 5 metres back. The second pitch went up a little then up the easy arete.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns (alt), 1983

Trad 65m

Showing all 14 routes.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文