Routes as trad in Leasehold Wall

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Showing all 18 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
16 Leasehold

Start at the left hand end of the wall, about 6-8m R of the entrance to Intrepid Gully. Up wide crack for a few metres then step right and go up steep orange streak. Rap chains.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979

Trad 22m
25 Women's Weekly World Discovery Tour

Rarely climbed. The top pitch is supposed to be hard and poorly protected but from the ground it looks like a piece of easy choss and, in fact, it is an easy piece of choss.

Start right of Leasehold at a low orange roof, 5 metres left of the heavily chalked roof of Fade Out.

  1. 15m (25) Desperate 2 moves out first bulge, then funky climbing left out main roof.

  2. 15m (12) Easy, mossy choss to Hum Tce.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1980

Trad 30m, 2
22 Fade Out

A good little roof leads to an interesting wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1979

Trad 35m
21 All in Vein

A filler roof problem.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 35m
20 Friends in High Places

Mostly good apart from a section of poor rock after the initial roof. Take L of two desperate handcracks through roof about 4m R of All In Vein. Rock improves up the corner, then direct through the roof and up to ledge at about 25m. Original route wandered off left before roof but DF is much better.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985

Trad 35m
20 Bhutan/High Place DF

Inital crack of Bhutan then follow FiHP and take DF through roof.

19 Bhutan

Start up the hand crack 1m R of FIHP... which is also desperate. Then wander across FIHP and keep going L then up and back R via a loose block. This route is pretty worthless and the only bit worth doing is the start as a slightly easier alternative to the start of FIHP.

FA: Chris Baxter & Maureen Gallagher, 1984

Trad 35m
15 Totally Stoned

The major crack-line 5 metres right of All In Vein offers some good climbing but it's currently ruined by a large bush.

This crack is the same one climbed by Intrepid but on the opposite side of the cliff! Thin people may be able to chimney through to Intrepid!

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1973

Trad 36m
14 Anchors Away

Another quite good climb. The line was originally gained by traversing in from Totally Stoned but should be started direct, as described.

FA: Craig Nottle, Mark Moorhead. Direct Start : Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983

Trad 35m
18 Sandbag Of The Century

The line at the left end of the ledge, starting up an easy corner that is just right of Anchors Away. Good steep climbing on clean rock. The name is referring to the recent sandbagging activities due to flood and is not related to the grade.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2011

Trad 30m
19 Bitterblue

Scramble onto the ledge to start this route, which takes the steep weakness found about halfway along the ledge. Reassure yourself that the numerous rock scars at the start of the route indicate that all the loose rock has been removed by earlier parties. The rock quality soon improves, and the route maintains interest for most of its length.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 25m
20 Fretwork

Filthy. Start 3 m R of Bitterblue, through overhang, step L then veer R up short wall.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 25m
16 Anchorman's Delight

Crack and wall right of Fretwork. Not too bad but has a few dirty holds.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 30m
19 Humbug

Right around the corner from Anchorman's Delight is a large corner system, left of The First Affinity. Start at the base of the crack in this corner. Up crack to roofs and through these. Continue up, stepping to the left of the arete to avoid the worst excesses of the crack. Then up mossy wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 30m
19 GoatyMcGoatface

Start up Humbug, go straight through the excesses of the crack until it eases into the rest below Infinity's corner. Up this, step right off ledge and up steep wall.

FA: Wendy Eden & Jess McMahon, 24 May 2016

Trad 25m
17 Infinity

It's not 19 and it's not at Frog. Start as for Humbug. Follow roof around right into low angle terrain then up obvious corner to ledge and up wall on left.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 45m
18 The First Affinity

Originally the first pitch to Affinity (Hum Terrace) but the two are rarely done as one climb.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepher, 1979

Trad 24m
21 Cognitive Dissonance

Pump-action. Worthwhile. Start as for The First Affinity.

FA: Jon Bassindale & Deb Sweet, 1999

Trad 30m

Showing all 18 routes.

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