Hum Terrace




Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Hum Terrace Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

A girdle traverse of the left side of the wall. Start 5 metres northwardsish of most southerly conifer.

FA: Alistair Mark, Dave Vass, Fiona Bowie & Marcus Wallaby., 1988

From cave left of "Down And Out" climb out right and up overhanging wall.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Left to thin crack the up through roof to steep wall. Start: from the big chock stone

FA: Mark Moorhead & Craig Nottle, 1979

From halfway along "Down And Out" traverse go up through bulge to prominent flake.

May be a little thin on gear.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Up breaks L of red streak at top of Intrepid Gully

Nowhere near Kansas City! Quite good but quite reachy and closer to 22 if you're short.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Pull up on jugs behind small tree immediately right of Kansas City DF, over bulge and up.

FA: Craig Nottle, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1983

Start direct if you want but guard against cracked red hold with small cam (green Alien size). Otherwise start up Waddy Mackenzie.

Boulder the hard start using square pocket and minimal pro, then up to the right of the left-leading diagonal, before following jugs to top.

Start: Start 8 metres right of "Kansas City Direct Finish".

FA: Peter Newman & Mark Moorhead, 1979

One very long move on nice rock.

FA: Douglas Hockly, Kate Finnerty & Callum Dougal

Steep wall on incuts to finish through overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Dave Gairns, 1983

? repeat of 'Heavy Breathing'.

1.5 metres left of 'Heavy Petting'

FA: Martin Lama etc, 1991

Fill in the double-entendres if you're so inclined.

Start: Start 3 metres left of "Menagerie".

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983

Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for 'Menagerie' followed this line but the orginal 'Menagerie' description clearly places it further right.

Start: Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting)

FA: Unknown, 2000

Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left..

Start: Start right of largest conifer at short red groove.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1977

The next three routes start from the ledge above Menagerie. Climb past short wall and ledge to gain thin crack.

FA: Phil Benson, Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991

Wall 2 metres to right of FTRTTS with big pockets at 2 metres.

FA: Martin Lama, Phil Benson & Graeme Smith, 1991

Go up 1 metre right of Up In Arms and right to overhang, step right, up.

FA: Graeme Smith, Phil Benson & Martin Lama, 1991

Back down on Hum Terrace. Direct finish to "Affinity". Go straight through roof or left and up.

Start: Start as for "Affinity".

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Craig Nottle, 1983

Absorbing climbing on immaculate rock. Originally the second pitch of a r-pitch route; the first pitch is now "The First Affinity".

Start: Start 5 metres down and right of large conifer.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979

Warning Flora and Fauna: Nesting Birds

Start as for Hum. Where Hum heads off R Step L to slot under overlap. Pull through overlap and straight up with a steep finish.

FA: Mark Wood & Eddy Mofadin, 30 Dec 2014

Warning Flora and Fauna: Nesting Birds

Straight up to the break with not enough gear

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2011

An enjoyable pitch with an exciting crux.

Start: Start 4 metres right of "Affinity"

FA: Ed Neve, Andrew Bowman & Lyle Closs, 1977

In fact it's a nearly blank wall.

Pass the fixed hanger of "High Kicks", and continue past a ringbolt, before getting to the honeycomb featured rock and a lower off.

FA: Geoff Little & Jon Muir, 1988

Technical moves lead to a delicate flake. The old carrot bolt, although poking out attractively, has been replaced. Finish at lower off where the nest of viper like rap slings once lurked ready to strike.

Start just left of enormous conifer and just right of the rock step down and right from "Hum".

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

Desperate start.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "High Kicks".

FA: Mike Law & Charlie Creese, 1981

Sustained jamming and underclinging with feet cycling on glassy rock.

The second pitch is fun in an adventurous way.

Start: Start below the right-leading roof-crack right of "High Kicks"

  1. 15m (20) Take the right-leading crack until it's possible to go left across the wall to cave belay.

  2. 25m (18) Head right up steep wall then finish R up short steep corner.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1977

A harder variant on the second pitch of "Morning Thunder". The first pitch appears a bit pointless.

Start: Start just left of "Morning Thunder"

  1. 15m (-) Go up and left under roof to cave on left.

  2. 20m (24) Go out over roof diagonally right to join "Morning Thunder" at prominent flake. Instead of going right, go straight up then 2 metres left and up line.

FA: Jon Muir & Tony Dignan, 1985

A great climb up the best section of the wall. Best done in one long pitch which will be pumpy to start and run-out to finish.

Start: Start at weakness 10 metres right of "Stormalong"

  1. 15m (24) Up crack to jug at roof. Arrange wires in horizontal pocket above roof then go boldly left and up to awkward stance. Veer right to flake then up to ledge.

  2. 20m (22) Up easily on the left then traverse right above roof and up face to easier ground.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead (alt), 1979

Very serious direct route up the Morning Thunder wall. Take double ropes.

Start: as for Morning Thunder.

  1. 15m (23) Follow MF to overlap then go boldly up black streak to gain the flake then up to ledge.

  2. 20m (25) Straight over small roof then cautiously right to bolt (scary clip). Thin move right into scoop then easily to horizontal. Finish up shallow groove (21 and slightly run-out).

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988


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