Routes as trad in Lower Curtain Wall

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Showing all 20 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
15 Dante's Inferno

Top pitch is excellent. Some like the first pitch and others think it's rubbish.

  1. 40m (-) From 2 metres right of chimney, go up clean, poorly protected but easy black slab.

  2. 20m (14) The undercut layback flake. Up to roof, protection in pockets on inside of flake, then into the layback.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Alec Campbell, 1966

Trad 70m, 2
23 Tinsel Town

Start from the top of pitch 1 of Dante's Inferno. Line left of the arete of Shaky Town, which is just left of the pitch 2 flake of Dante's Inferno.

Knee pad recommended, it has been known to tear pants.

FA: Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988

Mixed trad 15m, 3
23 X Shaky Town

Very poor protection.

Coming in from left, gain arete left of the Dante's Inferno's 2nd pitch flake.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Trad 15m
18 R Racey

Nice but a bit bold.

Bold groove 2 metres right of pitch 2 Dante's Inferno.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Trad 15m
21 Bog On Up

Direct line between 'Racey' and 'Censorship', finishing up smooth headwall

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988

Trad 15m
16 R Censorship

Good line but you'll have no chance if the huge block goes.

Take the major corner 7 metres right of Racey. Climb directly past the huge apparently detached block in the overhang and continue up. The original finish to Day Of Rest starts up this pitch and traverses right below the overhang.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Louise Shepherd & Rod Young, 1979

Trad 15m
15 R The Joker

The arete left of Sideshow, another good approach to the second pitch of 'Dante's Inferno'[442373157].

FA: Clive Curson, 1998

Mixed trad 25m, 1
19 Sideshow

Start: Left-most route on the main, orange face.

Head up right side of block on left then through weakness in overlap

Trad 35m
18 Entertainer

Up weakness to the right of Side Show following left-facing flake system to the roof. Head left along under this until an exit can be made straight up to rap station. For a more exciting finish (still grade 18), go straight through the weakness in the roof

Start: Two metres right of Side Show, a vague "E" can be found scratched on the rock

Trad 20m
21 Round Up

Start as for Entertainer. Originally started up 'Comic Relief' but you really need double ropes for that.

Up Entertainer then follow right-hand weakness at flake. Veer right to shallow corner. Hard moves up corner and through bulge to ledge. Up major flake until it ends then either up or move right to anchor.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Steve Moore, 1981

Trad 30m
21 Comic Relief

Start in the middle of the wall about five metres right of Entertainer, a vague "CR" can be found scratched on the rock

Up bulging weakness and pockets (very pumpy to get good gear in) to left-facing flake system that leads to dark overlap. Through this then up wall trending right. Move right rather than going straight up final corner. Rap anchors.

This climb has been the scene of a number of ground fall accidents including broken legs, head injuries and a belayer seriously injured by the falling leader. Take care at the first section. Consider the use of mats, spotters (but see above) and helmets.

Gear Beta Spoiler The initial big flake has garbage placements followed by an insecure move. People rip this gear and deck. The thin horizontal break just above the flake (which many climbers fail to notice) offers an opportunity to place bombproof gear before doing the hard move.

Trad 20m
22 Last Laugh

Up 'Comic Relief' to its good rest at the horizontals. Traverse R for a couple of metres and pull around the R side of the bulge (crux) and up onto the stance. Step R and climb the lovely orange wall (R of the upper part of 'Comic Relief') until it joins the last moves of 'Comic Relief' and reaches its anchors. The careful use of a few slings will reduce any rope drag.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Aug 2016

Trad 27m
24 Hello Hollywood

Exciting traverse of the lower wall.

Trad 50m
28 Showstopper

One very, very hard move.. hence the name.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1999

Mixed trad 27m, 3
26 Pet Abuse

Chipped, hence not very popular.

FA: Kim Carrigan

Mixed trad 30m, 2
27 Bada boom

Climb Cut Short for a few metres until you can gain the hanging orange/grey wall to the left. Up this on delightful incuts, slopes, razors, and pockets to gain a series of beautiful pockets above an orange overlap. Make a span leftwards above the lip to pick up a vertical seam through a bulge then stagger over this to join Tapestry at the end of its traverse. Finish up Tapestry.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Mixed trad 30m, 5
23 Tapestry
Trad 40m
21 Cut Short
Trad 30m
22 Final Bough

Contrived crux but nice top wall.

Up Cut Short to roof then follow line right up shallow groove to ledge. Delicately over bulge. Note: The 2 undercling blocks have now fallen out, and might make the moves and placing gear more difficult.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Robin Miller, 1982

Trad 35m
15 Day of Rest

Starts at ground level, a few metres right of 'Cut Short' at a right leaning diagonal crack. Although it is written up as 3 pitches, the first pitch finishes near a rap anchor, and this is where most people tend to finish the route.

  1. 32m (15) Up wall until airy pedestal then follow flake above to ledge, belay here. Rap off if so desired (30 metres).

  2. 28m (15) Traverse left and scramble up to a terrace,

  3. 25m (15) Now up the corner right of Dantes Inferno (Censorship) but traverse right below overhang to avoid big block.

FA: Chris Dewhirst Chris Baxter, 1979

Trad 85m, 3

Showing all 20 routes.

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