Routes as trad in Werewolf Area

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Showing all 19 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5 Silver Lining

Pad up the centre of the lovely clean slab left of Silver Bullet.

FA: Noah, Mayank from Balwyn High School, Keith Lockwood & Paul Noah Mayank from Balwyn HS, 17 Sep 2015

Trad 35m
8 Silver Bullet

The huge slabby corner which is essentially the approach ramp for 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'.

FA: John Chapman, 1976

Trad 40m
21 Solar City

Not quite as good as it looks but still not a bad route up the orange wall up left from 'Werewolf'.

Scramble up 'Silver Bullet' and find a belay ledge part-way. From here, continue up 'Silver Bullet' until you can step right onto the wall to gain the seam (some people can span this move, others may need to jump to the jug). The rock quality in the middle of the route detracts, as does the sit down rest in the cave. You can build a belay from the cave and walk off, or do the exciting overhang (which is over very quickly).

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod young, 1979

Trad 20m
23 R As You Like It

The face between 'Werewolf' and 'Solar City' has very fiddly gear.

Start: Start from 'Silver Bullet', midway between 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Allan Adams, 1982

Trad 20m
20 Werewolf

The lovely corner up the right wall of 'Silver Bullet' was probably the hardest climb in 'Victoria' in its day.

It's probably best to belay from the ground but some parties insist on scrambling up a few metres to belay at the very base of the line.

FA: Daryly Carr & Rob Taylor, 1966

Trad 24m
25 The Trial

Epic route-finding, but most people would ignore the indirect start described here and start up 'Tribulation'.

Start on arete right of 'Werewolf', aiming to eventually climb the hanging corner high on the arete.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Trad 35m
26 Tribulation

Boulder up seam past bolt to good ledge; there's actually 2, an old carrot and new FH placed for 'The Vampire' and it seems you can either go direct past the FH or go slightly right via the carrot.. Continue to jug just left of 'Colour Scheme' then go left a little and up headwall.

Start: Start at seam 3 metres right of 'The Trial'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Mixed trad 25m, 1
24 Colour Scheme

The lovely orange wall is pretty hard for the grade. Start as for Full Moon, then left and up past knifeblade.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1981

Trad 25m
26 Monochrome

Up Color Scheme to the pin, then move right to the rail. Straight up to join Goodbye.

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 22 Aug 2022

Trad 25m
22 Goodbye

Thank your lucky stars that this is no longer graded 19.

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

FA: Colin Reece, 1979

Trad 30m
24 Goodbye Direct
23 The Turkey Federation Of Australia
  1. 18m (16) As for 'Full Moon' to a ledge at 18 metres.

  2. 22m (23) Bulging wall to left, between 'Goodbye' and Let's Get Pissed to ledge. Left along ledge then right to finish up smooth grey wall just left of Let's Get Pissed.

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher & Geoff Little, 1988

Trad 40m, 2
16 Full Moon

Two good pitches with quite a hard start.

  1. 40m (16) There are two ways to reach the layback flake, either head up left from the base of the wide crack or climb directly up the pocketed slab. Follow the layback flake to face above on right and now up and right to main corner. A good ledge at 18 metres can be a good belay. The corner gives easy climbing to a ledge where it ends.

  2. 35m (12) Straight up steeply for 5 metres then up wall above, starting on right.

FA: Keith Egerton & John Chapman, 1976

Trad 85m, 2
16 Full Moon Variant finish

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

  1. 40m (16) As for 'Full Moon', belay on ledge below a short steep wall.

  2. 15m (13) Across left on ledge to front of buttress, where a beautiful little corner leads to terrace.

  3. 25m (13) Climb left side of pale yellow wall (left of FM p2) and up prominent diagonal line. Through bulge and on to top of pinnacle.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Noel Whiteside., 2003

Trad 80m, 3
24 Let's Get Pissed

Tackles the steep rock immediately left of the 'Full Moon' corner.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'Full Moon' below a small corner in the overlap.

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher & Geoff Little, 1988

Trad 40m
21 Harry V Dirchy

An easier, earlier excursion around Let's Get Pissed, but no improvement on the name.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Egerton, 1985

Trad 35m
17 Dead Ringer

Short brown corner left of Red Zinger. Verge right and over bulge. Continue via pockets.

FA: Tim Lockwood & Keith Lockwood, 25 May 2014

Trad 20m
21 Red Zinger

Thin moves left to base of flake then hard moves lead to roof. Traverse right to exit crack. Chossy rock to finish.

There's also a direct finish, grade 22, going straight up over roof. Jon Muir, Geoff Little 21-11-1988.

Start: Start 50 metres right of 'Full Moon' at smooth wall capped by overhang.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Craig Nottle, 1979

Trad 27m
21 A Chemical Reaction

Up 4 metres right of 'Red Zinger' to bulge. Up on good breaks.

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher & Geoff Little, 1988

Trad 20m

Showing all 19 routes.

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