Routes as trad in Far North

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 196 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
PB Gully
17 Black Legend

Thin seam on black streak at left end of wall, using left arete where necessary.

FA: Glen Donohue & Peter Cunningham, 1987

Trad 20m
10 Eddie Mabo

Starts just right of Black Legend at the right-slanting line. This could be the ‘’obvious grade 6 crack’’ mentioned in the Black Legend description. Climb the right-slanting line for a few metres, step left at horizontal break and continue up the centre of the wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tibor Janos, Kieran Loughran & Kieran Loughran, 1 Aug 2018

Trad 25m
11 Banjo Opera

Climb the unassuming but nice wall between Eddie Mabo and Is The Pope A Catholic.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Tibor Janos & Keith Lockwood, 1 Aug 2018

Trad 25m
12 Is The Pope a Catholic

Line 4 metres right of Grade 6 crack.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Glenn Donohue, 1987

Trad 15m
16 Papal Bull

Climb the seam up the middle of the clean wall right of Is The Pope A Catholic.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Tibor Janos & Kieran Loughran, 1 Aug 2018

Trad 25m
14 Journey to the Centre of the Earth

Companion route to The Land That Time Forgot. Take some biggish cams. Approach by abseil.

Bridge the deep-set corner a few metres left of The Land That Time Forgot. Exit right and continue up the pleasant easy crack in the headwall. This crack is clearly visible from the Telstra tower.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 14 Sep 2018

Trad 30m
15 The Land That Time Forgot

One of the remotest, most primeval parts of 'Arapiles'. A rewarding adventure. Good climbing too. It's clearly visible from the Telstra tower - the big grey wall across the valley. Approach by abseil.

Skirt clifftop around left (northish) to head of 'PB Gully'. Down gully system to the main wall.

Steeply into right-facing corner which is followed until a terrace appears up on the right. Don't be tempted. Instead, step left and up centre of wall, finishing over central overhang and headwall.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2005

Trad 35m
25 Temporary Imbalance

Thin flake at upper end of main section of gully. Hard move right to ledge then easy climbing.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 20m
25 Blockade

Start as for 'Impasse', traverse 4m R, go up 2m, then traverse back 3m! Now go up via a desperate crux, then up steep wall on brilliant rock and holds. Chain on ledge above topout.

Alternatively, clip the bolt on the direct start, batman up and head R into the crux. Less hassle and still 25.

Originally done with very high side runners to the L of the crux.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd, 1982

Trad 30m
Blockade DS

Open project past a bolt. A couple of pretty hard moves.

Mixed trad 20m, 1
24 Impasse

Wandery but good climbing. Start at a pair of horizontal breaks 4 metres right of 'Temporary Imbalance'. Up to second horizontal, traverse R 4m, go up 2m then diagonally right (not straight up the seam) and up the concavity on pockets and blind holds. Diagonally left to finish. Chain on wall above topout.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Trad 20m
25 R Flattered and Slightly Curious

Start up PB, at the horizontal go diagonally left and through the bulge to join Impasse at horizontals. Using some of the crux holds on Impasse, move up and slightly right on pockets and then move left and up to finish. Chains on ledge above. Probably the best of the 24s/25s in the gully, though Blockade is very good too.

The "R" comes from the scary start of PB, the rest of the route is well protected.

FA: Ben Wiessner, Douglas Hockly & Jack Jane, Oct 2015

Trad 20m
23 PB

The dominant line on the wall is sustained and has just enough small but good protection on the difficult start - which is the crux.

Rings above this also service Tangent.

FA: Tim Beaman, 1976

Trad 23m
23 R PB Direct Start

Scary up the shallow corner and thin wall to join PB

FA: Mark Moorhead

Trad 25m
25 PB Direct Finish

How hard is this really? Start up PB and continue straight up past two impossible moves.

FA: Stuart Williams & Dave Nelson, 1989

Trad 23m
25 Heavy Horses

Nathan Hoette spent 2 days on this. Even Malcolm Matheson didn't onsight it. It's a shame this has one of the most holdless bums at Arapiles in it - the rest is quite nice 22.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 25m
24 Angles Up

Devious line starting as for 'Tangent'. Up through the bulge (crux) past RP's / small wires then R to seam just L of Tangent. Up and L to next break, then R and through roof.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Trad 20m
19 Tangent

Start up easy grey crack 2 metres right of 'Heavy Horses'. Traverse right then follow short, left-leaning bottomless crack and head diagonally right to arete.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1979

Trad 20m
23 Self Contradictory

Tangent direct. Reach problem 3 metres right of start of Tangent. Finish direct through the roof as for Angles Up.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Nick Plishko, 1982

Trad 20m
Vandal Area
14 The Viragoes

Has a few good sections. Takes left arete, starting at little shallow corner on right, then slab to orange crack, to cave, finishing on jugs.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Heather Phillips, 1992

Trad 50m
23 Nature's Trip
1 23 20m
2 23 15m

'Cos it's next to "The Verge". Gets into some pretty sick territory. Worth doing if you're in the area.

The second pitch (an exciting roof) can also be climbed as a good second pitch for "The Verge".

  1. Start up 'The Verge', but instead of stepping right into the scoop ,go straight up through the thin bulge passing a fixed wire on your left. , keep heading up easy orange face to bulge passing a FH to jugs out right and up to break, From there, power straight up the thin bouldery face and onto easy ground up to a high chain rap anchor.

  2. The second pitch starts several meters to the right of the chain anchors, (trad anchor available) below an orange column with a FH. Up this to a white scoop under the roof FH. Up and out left along the pumpy lip traverse passing a FH. then over the lip and up to chain rap anchor. Rappel is 30 + m ! FA Robert Mudie & Muki Woods Alt

Set: muki woods

FFA: Robert Mudie & muki woods

FA: Robert Mudie, muki woods, Ben Sheppard & Patrick McGovern, 3 Sep 2017

Mixed trad 35m, 2, 4
24 The Verge

Start just up right of The Viragoes. Straight up and through thin crack in bulge, move right into large, guano-stained, V-scoop. Bridge up scoop to roof, past FH, swing left along lip and up short crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Shepherd. First bulge was initially climbed as Threshold by Rod Young & Mark Moorhead., 1979

Mixed trad 20m, 1
15 The Vagabond

Somewhat disparaged but takes in some interesting country. The traverse on the first pitch is nice but poorly protected.

  1. 30m (10) Diagonally right up the ramp until one can traverse back left to the guano-stained V-scoop on 'The Verge'. Continue left to the nose of the buttress and follow it on jugs to the anchor of The Viragoes.

  2. 15m (8) The crack above then up a short, juggy wall to terrace the overhanging arete. There's an ancient , unnecessary bolt.

  3. 30m (10) Climb the corner between the overhanging "Hearse Aretes" then chimney to terrace (Check out photos of Hearse Arete at Gardom's Edge, UK to clarify the description).

  4. 7m (15) At the back of the terrace are 2 corners [this is about a 10m walk from the top of the P3]. The steep right-hand corner is good fun and quite technical. The one on the left is probably easier but doesn't look as good. This pitch can also be avoided by scrambling right and down and around to the rap anchor at the top of Hum Terrace.

FA: John Moore, Chris Baxter & Phillip Stranger, 1965

Trad 82m, 4
17 Big Silver Rocket

Up diagonal line right until short corner on right of the phallus. Up this behind Phallus exiting around side. Now mount phallus and ejaculate onself through roof. Continue upwards to distinct orange mini-scoop with crack through middle. Don't escape right or left but bridge through roof to belay. Finish up Sweet Surrender's second pitch or do Where's Merilyn?

Start: 3m Right of the Verge.

FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham Deb Churches & Mark Witham Deb Churches

Trad 20m
16 Where's Merilyn?

Start: 4m right of big silver rocket

  1. -m (16) up mossy slab moving right to short crack. Up to rib. Climb this to steepness where move left on horizontals to belay ledge.

  2. -m (10) Continue up to good horizontal. Traverse 5-6m left on good holds & good pro until you can step up easily. Continue up to good ledge with bolt (Vagabond's belay).

  3. -m (17) Step right and continue up the end of 'Sweet Surrender'.

FA: Mark Witham, Michael Hartman, Deb Churches & Deb Churches

Trad 85m, 3
18 Sweet Surrender

A pretty good route but escapable in parts.

Begin just left of the big tree.

  1. 25m (18) Undercling to start then up flakes and cracks to big ledge.

  2. 35m (17) Go left into lowest orange scoop. Tackle this on the right and into smaller scoop above, then up past another two bulges.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983

Trad 60m, 2
22 Comb-over

Because it's thin. Start up 'Sweet Surrender' and move R to below orange wall. Straight up past two bolts then direct up juggy nose above to ledge.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Rebecca Hopkins, Nov 2014

Mixed trad 25m, 2
17 Assistance Required Direct Start

Rigt of Sweet Surrender's first pitch, climb to roof, move right around this and up to 'Vandal' terrace.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983

Trad 20m
20 Assistance Required

Pretty orange wall left of Vandal's main corner.

Go up wall to scoop; left here and up.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Peter Newman, 1979

Trad 25m
22 Puzzlin' Evidence

Wonderful direct finish to 'Assistance Required'. Originally climbed Sweet Surrender to the second scoop and then moved right and up wall to high central scoop. Many (most?) parties climb Assistance Required into high central scoop. From the scoop, go straight up steep wall past small cam on lovely rock and over bulge.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

Trad 25m
17 Vandal

Used to be vastly undergraded at 14 though older masters of the thrutch maintain that the grade was OK.

The route originally started up the diagonal ramp from 'Vagabond' but noone does that now.

Start in the gully just above the tree, directly below the big orange corner.

  1. 15m (13) Pull onto wall and climb groove to large ledge at base of corner.

  2. 15m (14) The great corner leads to another ledge.

  3. 15m (17) Hard moves into the undercut corner and bridge to the top.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, John Moore, Jerremy Grandage. Pitch 1 : Ian Thomas, Andrew Bowman & David Shirra., 1977

Trad 45m, 3
23 Another Route

Another inspiring route name.

  1. 15m (23) Middle of bulging wall right of Vandal's second pitch and just left of the final bit of 'Swallows and Amazons'.

  2. 15m (23) Swing onto smooth left wall of 'Vandal', climbing midway between that climb and Puzzlin' Evidence.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

Trad 30m, 2
17 Swallows and Amazons

Originally done with two pitches, the rap anchor at the end of the first pitch turns it into a good single pitch climb. It also comes into the shade reasonably early.

Start at flake 5 metres up and right of Vandal. Layback the flake left then climb the right wall of Vandal. Ignore Vandal's first belay and continue steeply up crack in right wall to ledge and bolt anchors 5 metres back. The second pitch went up a little then up the easy arete.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns (alt), 1983

Trad 65m
Intrepid Gully
23 Angry Penguins

Gear is fiddly, take slings for jugs. You can go L above the roof into a small corner, or just straight up. Start on left arete of gully, right of the start of Vandal. Trend right up face, through bulge, then left and up steep wall.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd & Eddy Ozols, 1981

Trad 20m
24 A Shorter History of Women's Bodies

Start 2 metres right of Angry Penguins, up to small roof, up and right to jug on lip of another rooflet. Straight up.

Going straight up from the first roof is a variant top-roped from chains.

FA: Louise, Lincoln Shepherd & Steve Monks, 1988

Trad 22m
24 Epic Demic

Black and brittle but still good. Take a thin sling for one placement. Start about halfway along the left wall of the gully, about 5 metres right of Angry Penguins. Up vague crack to a good break. Traverse 2 metres left to sickle flake then hard moves up left to jugs.

FA: Chris & Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

Trad 22m
25 Cliff Richards

Wall right of Epic Demic past bolts. Continue up Down And Out or traverse off either way.

FA: Lincoln & Louise Shepherd, 1988

Mixed trad 15m, 2
17 A Step in the Right Direction

A novelty girdle of the right wall with a jump in the tail. Start below the chockstones at the head of the gully. Up right wall to horizontal break and traverse right all the way to Opening and follow that to terrace. Jump the gap and go up to chains (or use Leasehold's chains).

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ian Anger & Greg Pritchard, 1992

Trad 20m
11 Intrepid

Steep, wide crack on the right wall, deep in the gully. Poor protection without some really big cams.

FA: Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood, 1967

Trad 18m
21 R Fourteen Days in May

Dimpled grey wall 1 metre R of Intrepid past 2 bolts.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Steve Monks, 1988

Mixed trad 18m, 2
21 R Pick and Lose

Protection is just OK and rock is a bit fragile. Up the wall 3 metres right of Intrepid to break. Go over bulge at small, left-curving crack.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 20m
23 Believe You Me

Ramp as for Opening then straight up groove to break. Step left and take thin crack through bulge right of Pick And Lose.

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd. Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey did an incomplete version of this in., 1981

Trad 20m
18 Opening

Good for a hot day. Seem to remember that it is a bit pushy. Climb ramp 1 metre right of Pick And Lose then traverse right to below shallow overhanging corner just left of arete and up this corner.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Lincoln Shepherd, 1979

Trad 20m
23 Hard Snort

Right arete of Intrepid Gully. Now has a new glue-in U-bolt which requires stick-clipping. The Leasehold rap chains are just to your right on top.

FA: Lincoln, Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks & Phil Bigg, 1988

Mixed trad 20m, 1
Leasehold Wall
16 Leasehold

Start at the left hand end of the wall, about 6-8m R of the entrance to Intrepid Gully. Up wide crack for a few metres then step right and go up steep orange streak. Rap chains.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979

Trad 22m
25 Women's Weekly World Discovery Tour

Rarely climbed. The top pitch is supposed to be hard and poorly protected but from the ground it looks like a piece of easy choss and, in fact, it is an easy piece of choss.

Start right of Leasehold at a low orange roof, 5 metres left of the heavily chalked roof of Fade Out.

  1. 15m (25) Desperate 2 moves out first bulge, then funky climbing left out main roof.

  2. 15m (12) Easy, mossy choss to Hum Tce.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1980

Trad 30m, 2
22 Fade Out

A good little roof leads to an interesting wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1979

Trad 35m
21 All in Vein

A filler roof problem.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 35m
20 Friends in High Places

Mostly good apart from a section of poor rock after the initial roof. Take L of two desperate handcracks through roof about 4m R of All In Vein. Rock improves up the corner, then direct through the roof and up to ledge at about 25m. Original route wandered off left before roof but DF is much better.

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985

Trad 35m
20 Bhutan/High Place DF

Inital crack of Bhutan then follow FiHP and take DF through roof.

19 Bhutan

Start up the hand crack 1m R of FIHP... which is also desperate. Then wander across FIHP and keep going L then up and back R via a loose block. This route is pretty worthless and the only bit worth doing is the start as a slightly easier alternative to the start of FIHP.

FA: Chris Baxter & Maureen Gallagher, 1984

Trad 35m
15 Totally Stoned

The major crack-line 5 metres right of All In Vein offers some good climbing but it's currently ruined by a large bush.

This crack is the same one climbed by Intrepid but on the opposite side of the cliff! Thin people may be able to chimney through to Intrepid!

FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1973

Trad 36m
14 Anchors Away

Another quite good climb. The line was originally gained by traversing in from Totally Stoned but should be started direct, as described.

FA: Craig Nottle, Mark Moorhead. Direct Start : Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983

Trad 35m
18 Sandbag Of The Century

The line at the left end of the ledge, starting up an easy corner that is just right of Anchors Away. Good steep climbing on clean rock. The name is referring to the recent sandbagging activities due to flood and is not related to the grade.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2011

Trad 30m
19 Bitterblue

Scramble onto the ledge to start this route, which takes the steep weakness found about halfway along the ledge. Reassure yourself that the numerous rock scars at the start of the route indicate that all the loose rock has been removed by earlier parties. The rock quality soon improves, and the route maintains interest for most of its length.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 25m
20 Fretwork

Filthy. Start 3 m R of Bitterblue, through overhang, step L then veer R up short wall.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 25m
16 Anchorman's Delight

Crack and wall right of Fretwork. Not too bad but has a few dirty holds.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 30m
19 Humbug

Right around the corner from Anchorman's Delight is a large corner system, left of The First Affinity. Start at the base of the crack in this corner. Up crack to roofs and through these. Continue up, stepping to the left of the arete to avoid the worst excesses of the crack. Then up mossy wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 30m
19 GoatyMcGoatface

Start up Humbug, go straight through the excesses of the crack until it eases into the rest below Infinity's corner. Up this, step right off ledge and up steep wall.

FA: Wendy Eden & Jess McMahon, 24 May 2016

Trad 25m
17 Infinity

It's not 19 and it's not at Frog. Start as for Humbug. Follow roof around right into low angle terrain then up obvious corner to ledge and up wall on left.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 45m
18 The First Affinity

Originally the first pitch to Affinity (Hum Terrace) but the two are rarely done as one climb.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepher, 1979

Trad 24m
21 Cognitive Dissonance

Pump-action. Worthwhile. Start as for The First Affinity.

FA: Jon Bassindale & Deb Sweet, 1999

Trad 30m
Hum Terrace
18 Over and Out

A girdle traverse of the left side of the wall. Start 5 metres northwardsish of most southerly conifer.

FA: Alistair Mark, Dave Vass, Fiona Bowie & Marcus Wallaby., 1988

Trad 30m
20 Jugs and Fun

From cave left of Down And Out climb out right and up overhanging wall.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Trad 22m
20 Down and Out

Start from the big chock stone. Left to thin crack then up through roof to steep wall.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Craig Nottle, 1979

Trad 25m
21 Mark and Craig

A few more repeats might help clear up the route description.

Option 1: From halfway along the Down And Out traverse, go up through bulges on tiny edges (and no gear?), to prominent flake.

Option 2: Traverse a quarter of the Down And Out traverse, then go up via thin seams and decent gear, before spanning a metre left to gain the prominent flake.

Follow the glory jugs to the Down And Out anchor (found tucked around the corner).

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1985

Trad 24m
17 Lord of the Rings Variant Start

Up breaks L of red streak at top of Intrepid Gully.

Trad 20m
19 Kansas City Direct Finish

Nowhere near Kansas City! Quite good but quite reachy and closer to 22 if you're short.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1979

Trad 18m
16 Waddy Mackenzie

Pull up on jugs behind small tree immediately right of Kansas City DF, over bulge and up.

FA: Craig Nottle, Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1983

Trad 20m
19 Exodus 2.5 Direct Finish

Start direct if you want but guard against cracked red hold with small cam (green Alien size). Otherwise start up Waddy Mackenzie.

Trad 18m
21 Four Spooner

Start 8m R of Kansas City Direct Finish. Boulder the hard start using square pocket and minimal pro, then up to the right of the left-leading diagonal, before following jugs to top.

FA: Peter Newman & Mark Moorhead, 1979

Trad 20m
22 Nihilism

One very long move on nice rock.

FA: Douglas Hockly, Kate Finnerty & Callum Dougal

Trad 18m
15 Heavy Breathing

Steep wall on incuts to finish through overhang.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Dave Gairns, 1983

Trad 20m
15 Heartless Heart

? repeat of Heavy Breathing.

1.5 metres left of Heavy Petting.

FA: Martin Lama etc, 1991

Trad 20m
15 Heavy Petting

Fill in the double-entendres if you're so inclined. Start 3 metres left of Menagerie.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1983

Trad 20m
9 Munchkin

Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for Menagerie followed this line but the original Menagerie description clearly places it further right. Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting).

FA: Unknown, 2000

Trad 20m
9 Menagerie

Start right of largest conifer. Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1977

Trad 20m
17 High Sigh

Direct finish to The Second Affinity. Go straight through roof or left and up.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter & Craig Nottle, 1983

Trad 25m
17 The Second Affinity

Absorbing climbing on immaculate rock. Originally the second pitch of a 2-pitch route; the first pitch is now The First Affinity. Start 5 metres down and right of large conifer.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1979

Trad 22m
17 Dinger

Start as for Hum. Where Hum heads off R step L to slot under overlap. Pull through overlap and straight up with a steep finish.

FA: Mark Wood & Eddy Mofadin, 30 Dec 2014

Trad 22m
18 R Dinger direct start

Straight up to the break with not enough gear.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2011

Trad 25m
16 Hum

An enjoyable pitch with an exciting crux. Start 4m R of Affinity.

FA: Ed Neve, Andrew Bowman & Lyle Closs, 1977

Trad 30m
24 Jug City

In fact it's a nearly blank wall. Pass the fixed hanger of High Kicks, and continue past a ringbolt, before getting to the honeycomb featured rock and a lower off.

FA: Geoff Little & Jon Muir, 1988

Mixed trad 13m, 2
23 High Kicks

Start just left of enormous conifer and just right of the rock step down and right from Hum. Technical moves lead to a delicate flake. The old carrot bolt, although poking out attractively, has been replaced. Finish at lower off where the nest of viper like rap slings once lurked ready to strike.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, 1981

Mixed trad 13m, 1
25 Starlets in Tow

Desperate start. Start 3m R of High Kicks.

FA: Mike Law & Charlie Creese, 1981

Trad 20m
20 Stormalong

Sustained jamming and underclinging with feet cycling on glassy rock. The second pitch is fun in an adventurous way. Start below the right-leading roof-crack right of High Kicks.

  1. 15m (20) Take the right-leading crack until it's possible to go left across the wall to cave belay.

  2. 25m (18) Head right up steep wall then finish R up short steep corner.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1977

Trad 32m, 2
24 Afternoon Cloud

A harder variant on the second pitch of Morning Thunder. The first pitch appears a bit pointless, and the route is best done by starting up Morning Thunder.

  1. 15m (-) Start as for Morning Thunder, then go left under roof to cave on left.

  2. 20m (24) Go out over roof diagonally right to join Morning Thunder at prominent flake. Continue up Morning Thunder until it traverses right on the second pitch; instead go straight up then hard moves 2 metres left to gain a horizontal edge, then easily upwards.

FA: Jon Muir & Tony Dignan, 1985

Trad 35m, 2
25 Krakatoa

FFA: Kevin Lindorff

Mixed trad 30m, 5
24 R Morning Thunder

A great climb up the best section of the wall. Best done in one long pitch which will be pumpy to start and run-out to finish. Start at weakness 10m R of Stormalong.

  1. 15m (24) Up crack to jug at roof. Arrange wires in horizontal pocket above roof then go boldly left and up to awkward stance. Veer right to flake then up to ledge.

  2. 20m (22) Up easily on the left then traverse right above roof and up face to easier ground.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead (alt), 1979

Trad 30m, 2
25 X Sufficiently Alarming

Very serious route up the Morning Thunder wall (although the addition of extra bolts to the second pitch has helped tame that part).

  1. 15m (23) Start up Morning Thunder to overlap. The Mentz/Tempest guidebook advises to "go boldly up black streak", however it seems that there isn't a black streak, nor are there many holds (some edges appear to have snapped off), and there isn't any gear, which all makes this pitch very unappealing and unlikely at the grade. Then easily up to the ledge.

  2. 20m (25) Straight over small roof then cautiously right to bolt (scary clip). Ignore the holds going up and left (for Morning Thunder), instead do a thin move right into scoop then easily to horizontal. Finish up right in shallow groove (it appears that 2 fixed hangers have been added to this section).

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

Mixed trad 35m, 2, 3
12 From the Ridiculous to the Sublime

Climb past short wall and ledge to gain thin crack.

FA: Phil Benson, Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991

Trad 12m
18 Up in Arms

Wall 2 metres to right of FTRTTS with big pockets at 2 metres.

FA: Martin Lama, Phil Benson & Graeme Smith, 1991

Trad 12m
17 Sole Sister

Go up 1 metre right of Up In Arms and right to overhang, step right, up.

FA: Graeme Smith, Phil Benson & Martin Lama, 1991

Trad 12m
Lower Curtain Wall
15 Dante's Inferno

Top pitch is excellent. Some like the first pitch and others think it's rubbish.

  1. 40m (-) From 2 metres right of chimney, go up clean, poorly protected but easy black slab.

  2. 20m (14) The undercut layback flake. Up to roof, protection in pockets on inside of flake, then into the layback.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Alec Campbell, 1966

Trad 70m, 2
23 Tinsel Town

Start from the top of pitch 1 of Dante's Inferno. Line left of the arete of Shaky Town, which is just left of the pitch 2 flake of Dante's Inferno.

Knee pad recommended, it has been known to tear pants.

FA: Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988

Mixed trad 15m, 3
23 X Shaky Town

Very poor protection.

Coming in from left, gain arete left of the Dante's Inferno's 2nd pitch flake.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Trad 15m
18 R Racey

Nice but a bit bold.

Bold groove 2 metres right of pitch 2 Dante's Inferno.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Trad 15m
21 Bog On Up

Direct line between 'Racey' and 'Censorship', finishing up smooth headwall

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988

Trad 15m
16 R Censorship

Good line but you'll have no chance if the huge block goes.

Take the major corner 7 metres right of Racey. Climb directly past the huge apparently detached block in the overhang and continue up. The original finish to Day Of Rest starts up this pitch and traverses right below the overhang.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Louise Shepherd & Rod Young, 1979

Trad 15m
15 R The Joker

The arete left of Sideshow, another good approach to the second pitch of 'Dante's Inferno'[442373157].

FA: Clive Curson, 1998

Mixed trad 25m, 1

Showing 1 - 100 out of 196 routes.

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