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Slander Wall Guide

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 42

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Wendy Eden Campbell Gome Douglas Hockly Dan Alex Casar Simon Pateman benjamin james eichler Vanessa Wills Andrew Martin

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Slander Wall 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

description

The small cliff on the L of the gully.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

access issues

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

inherited from Arapiles

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 When Mark Was King

Bouldery start.

Start: Start on L side of Slander Wall.

FA: Brian Fish, 1982

19 Trad 12m
2 That Man Again

Finish up blunt arete.

Start: Start just R of WMWK.

FA: Brian Fish, 1982

21 Trad 12m
3 Evelyn's New Clothes

The thin corner.

Start: Start just R of arete.

FA: Evelyn Lees & Louise Shepherd, 1982

16 Trad 12m
4 Mouse Trap

Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur.

FA: Dick Evans & Gary Wills, 1979

13 Trad 45m
5 Rat Trap

This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock.

FA: Ed Briner & Steve Stretton, 1971

13 Trad 45m
6 Chubby Like Chris

The nice thin crack on the arete, but don't reach L to make it easier!

Start: Start at the arete R of RT.

FA: Evelyn Lees & Brian Fish, 1982

19 Trad 12m
7 Chubby Like Chris Part II

The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line.

Start: Start R of CLC.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

24 Mixed trad 12m, 1
8 Speedy Lou

The crack.

Start: Start R of CLCP2.

FA: Brian Fish & Evelyn Lees, 1982

18 Trad 12m
9 Compost Corner

Up then step L and follow the continuation.

Start: Start 2m R of SL.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Evelyn Lees, 1982

16 Trad 50m
10 Gri Grieving

Up a shallow orange corner left of Prairie, continue direct through steepening and onward forth to walk off ledge. May have some suss rock, vegetation and lichen.

FA: Dan Flynn & Wendy Eden, Sep 2018

9 Trad 45m
11 Prairie

Probably worthless but no-one has definitely located it.

Start about 60 metres up King Rat Gully where the left side becomes a short juggy wall. Prairie starts at the steep line 2 metres right of a corner.

Up the crack on good holds until a ledge at 25m. Traverse off left along tis ledge.

FA: Clive Parker & Graham Squire, 1977

7 Trad 50m
12 Climb is not the correct noun

From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock.

FA: Wendy Eden & Dan Flynn, Sep 2018

14 Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
7 Prairie Trad 50m
9 Gri Grieving Trad 45m
13 Mouse Trap Trad 45m
Rat Trap Trad 45m
14 Climb is not the correct noun Trad 20m
16 Compost Corner Trad 50m
Evelyn's New Clothes Trad 12m
18 Speedy Lou Trad 12m
19 Chubby Like Chris Trad 12m
When Mark Was King Trad 12m
21 That Man Again Trad 12m
24 Chubby Like Chris Part II Mixed trad 12m, 1
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