A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Wendy Eden Campbell Gome Kieran Loughran Douglas Hockly Dan Alex Casar Simon Pateman benjamin james eichler Vanessa Wills Andrew Martin
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Slander Wall 12 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Slander Wall 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
description
The small cliff on the L of the gully.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area
access issues
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
ethic
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
When Mark Was King
Bouldery start. Start: Start on L side of Slander Wall. FA: Brian Fish, 1982 | 19 | 12m | |||||
2 |
That Man Again
Finish up blunt arete. Start: Start just R of WMWK. FA: Brian Fish, 1982 | 21 | 12m | |||||
3 |
Evelyn's New Clothes
The thin corner. Start: Start just R of arete. FA: Evelyn Lees & Louise Shepherd, 1982 | 16 | 12m | |||||
4 |
★ Mouse Trap
Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur. FA: Dick Evans & Gary Wills, 1979 | 13 | 45m | |||||
5 |
Rat Trap
This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock. FA: Ed Briner & Steve Stretton, 1971 | 13 | 45m | |||||
6 |
Chubby Like Chris
The nice thin crack on the arete, but don't reach L to make it easier! Start: Start at the arete R of RT. FA: Evelyn Lees & Brian Fish, 1982 | 19 | 12m | |||||
7 |
Chubby Like Chris Part II
The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line. Start: Start R of CLC. FA: Mike Law, 1982 | 24 | 12m, 1 | |||||
8 |
Speedy Lou
The crack. Start: Start R of CLCP2. FA: Brian Fish & Evelyn Lees, 1982 | 18 | 12m | |||||
9 |
Compost Corner
Up then step L and follow the continuation. Start: Start 2m R of SL. FA: Louise Shepherd & Evelyn Lees, 1982 | 16 | 50m | |||||
10 |
Gri Grieving
Up a shallow orange corner left of Prairie, continue direct through steepening and onward forth to walk off ledge. May have some suss rock, vegetation and lichen. FA: Dan Flynn & Wendy Eden, Sep 2018 | 9 | 45m | |||||
11 |
Prairie
Probably worthless but no-one has definitely located it. Start about 60 metres up King Rat Gully where the left side becomes a short juggy wall. Prairie starts at the steep line 2 metres right of a corner. Up the crack on good holds until a ledge at 25m. Traverse off left along tis ledge. FA: Clive Parker & Graham Squire, 1977 | 7 | 50m | |||||
12 |
Climb is not the correct noun
From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock. FA: Wendy Eden & Dan Flynn, Sep 2018 | 14 | 20m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
7 | Prairie | 50m | |||
9 | Gri Grieving | 45m | |||
13 | ★ | Mouse Trap | 45m | ||
Rat Trap | 45m | ||||
14 | Climb is not the correct noun | 20m | |||
16 | Compost Corner | 50m | |||
Evelyn's New Clothes | 12m | ||||
18 | Speedy Lou | 12m | |||
19 | Chubby Like Chris | 12m | |||
When Mark Was King | 12m | ||||
21 | That Man Again | 12m | |||
24 | Chubby Like Chris Part II | 12m, 1 |