Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Good face climbing past BR into crack.

Start: Go all the way up 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork, this is the last (leftmost) route on the small wall on your right.

FA: Roland Foster & Greg Pritchard, 1982

Old James Falla project with a bolt or maybe two? Don't know if it's been ticked but it's about 27.

Flakes to BR then R and up.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Feel It Closing In'.

FA: Roland Foster & Allan Wilkie, 1982

Unprotected black streak, then corner.

Start: Start ~20m R of ALG.

FA: Jon Muir & Russell Chudleigh, 1984

L on shallow flakes then up past 2 FHs. If you go straight up before the traverse it's only 20.

Start: Start R of MRS.

FA: Gavin Jensen & Wayne Jensen, 1989

Boulder into R-tending flake and up it to jugs.

Start: Start 4m L of BL.

FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989

This pair's additions at 'Werribee Gorge' see a lot more love than these obscure numbers.

Start: Start 10m L up the gully from IaLD.

FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989

Lovely positions up the prominent grey arete, starting on the R face at first.

Start: Start about 15m up the scramble of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork. The start can also be accessed by climbing 'Scylla' or 'Charybdis' for 15m then walking L along the ledge.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1981

Move R up the slabby corner then launch up the smooth face 5m R of IaLD. 'Small' gear is all that's keeping you off the slab at first.

Start: Start as for IaLD.

FA: Geoff Donovan, 1987

Straight up the face squeezing between Dinosaur and Asteroid.

Start: Start as for IaLD.

FA: Sean Toren & Steph Stewart, 1992

Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings.

FA: Keith, Tim & Fiona Lockwood, 2001

Basically a second pitch for 'Scylla'. Possibly poorly protected.

Start: Start at the ledge atop 'Scylla'.

FA: Ed Darling & Gareth Llewellyn, 1997

An excellent approach for Dinosaur and Asteroid. The obvious thin finger crack in the dihedral. Eats up small cams

Start: Start just R of 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1966

A little extension to Scylla. Up Scylla until the difficulties ease, then step left to follow the flakes (instead of finishing up Charybdis). More sustained than the original finish.

Start: Start a couple of metres R of S.

  1. 15m (15) The R crack to the ledge.

  2. 15m (14) The wide crack in the L-facing corner above the ledge.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk, 1966

As for C for 10m then R and up arete.

Start: Start as for C.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1981

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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