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Right Fork

11
AU

Seasonality

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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Pull through the start of 'Luxury Item' then L along the horizontal line to the arête. Up the arête past a bolt to a ledge and double glue-in lower-off anchor.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 9 Nov 2016

Fiddly pro initially. Step R at 15m to find the rap anchor above 'King Rat'. Apparently the "awesome" continuation up the chossy headwall is yet to be done - knock yourself out.

Start: Start beneath the grey wall which separates 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork and Right Fork.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1981

Climb Glory Rodent until through the crux. Traverse L to jug on arete and good medium wire above. Climb arete direct, watch out for rope drag or use doubles. Extra grade just for the extra effort required... it's not really any harder than GR.

FA: Goshen Watts, 25 Jan 2020

The awesomely steep line is made easier by a few faceholds.

Start: The first steep line you get to on the L wall of KRGRF.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1976

Another awesomely steep line.

Start: Start 4m R of GR. Clip piton at your own risk. Sharp.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Derek Lord (1 aid on piton), 1967

FFA: Dave Neilson, 1971

Escapable but fun. Climb 'King Rat' to the thread. Reach up and R to gain big hold on the lip of the overhang. Pull straight through and climb the featured wall above to finish on the ledge. You may want to bring a few small wires for the upper orange headwall. Two U-bolt lower-off.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Jan 2015

The rotten flake then the bulge to pull R into the flake, belay on R. NOTE: The carrot bolt was very dodgy and has been removed. It needs to be replaced (and repositioned) when anyone can be bothered.

Start: Start R of KR.

FA: Rod Young & Mike Meyers, 1982

Straightens out and significantly improves Kookenhagen. Easily up the line for a few metres then pull up left around the overlap past a bolt runner and up the line above (Kookenhagen stays lower and keeps traversing left).

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, Oct 2016

Sustained face and crack with good wires.

Start: Start 3m R of K.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey, 1982

A "V", then a sickle. Dodgy rock and gear. Not worth a star.

Start: Start R of MW.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Mike Law, 1982

Fingery moves. The original crap bolts were replaced in 2003.

Start: Start R of FB, beneath the huge chockstone above the gully.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Shepherd, 1982

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Activity

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