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Serious Young Lizards Wall Guide

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 6

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome Paul Badenoch Wendy Eden

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Serious Young Lizards Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

description

100m R of Rye Wall

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

access issues

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

inherited from Arapiles

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tingles

Corner with ledge at half-height on south-east facing wall around left from 'Serious Young Lizards'.

FA: Steve Holloway & Bert Levy, 1998

9 Trad 10m
2 Pied Piper

Main face of pinnacle about 15 metres left of Serious Young Lizrds. Grade is a wild guess as none was given.

FA: Bert Levy, 1998

12 Trad 10m
3 Rat Cracker

Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards'

FA: Bert Levy & steve Holloway, 1998

14 Trad 10m
4 Serious Young Lizards

Worth doing for the history. This climb came into existence while Kim Carrigan was attempting the first ascent of what would become Lord Of The Rings. When Kim announced that he was intending to call the climb 'Serious Young Lizards' a piece of extremely obscure rock was promptly found, climbed and given that name.

FA: Jon Muir & Brigitte Muir, 1985

18 Trad 15m
5 Rat Cat

Grade is a guess as none was given. Crack 3 metres right of 'Serious Young Lizards'.

FA: Steve Holloway & Bert Levy, 1998

15 Trad 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
9 Tingles Trad 10m
12 Pied Piper Trad 10m
14 Rat Cracker Trad 10m
15 Rat Cat Trad 10m
18 Serious Young Lizards Trad 15m
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