A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Kieran Loughran Campbell Gome Paul Badenoch Wendy Eden
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
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Table of contents
- 1. Serious Young Lizards Wall 5 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Serious Young Lizards Wall 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
description
100m R of Rye Wall
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area
access issues
Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).
ethic
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Tingles
Corner with ledge at half-height on south-east facing wall around left from 'Serious Young Lizards'. FA: Steve Holloway & Bert Levy, 1998 | 9 | 10m | |||
2 |
Pied Piper
Main face of pinnacle about 15 metres left of Serious Young Lizrds. Grade is a wild guess as none was given. FA: Bert Levy, 1998 | 12 | 10m | |||
3 |
Rat Cracker
Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards' FA: Bert Levy & steve Holloway, 1998 | 14 | 10m | |||
4 |
Serious Young Lizards
Worth doing for the history. This climb came into existence while Kim Carrigan was attempting the first ascent of what would become Lord Of The Rings. When Kim announced that he was intending to call the climb 'Serious Young Lizards' a piece of extremely obscure rock was promptly found, climbed and given that name. FA: Jon Muir & Brigitte Muir, 1985 | 18 | 15m | |||
5 |
Rat Cat
Grade is a guess as none was given. Crack 3 metres right of 'Serious Young Lizards'. FA: Steve Holloway & Bert Levy, 1998 | 15 | 10m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
9 | Tingles | 10m | |||
12 | Pied Piper | 10m | |||
14 | Rat Cracker | 10m | |||
15 | Rat Cat | 10m | |||
18 | Serious Young Lizards | 15m |