Bum Rocks





The bulgy buttress 30m L of King Rat Gully.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

Traverse both cheeks via the orange weakness at half height.

Start: Start up the L side of Bum Rock.

FA: R. Sonist (ha ha), 1989

Mantle, bulge, and groove past oval shaped roof.

Start: Start 3m L of the bumcrack, er, central chimney.

FA: Hanut Dodd & M Abbott, 1989

Start 3 metres right High School Antics on left side of chimney. Stay on left side of chimney avoiding the temptation to bridge at any stage. Climb up to horizontal crack and into corner. Up to overhang and obvious thread through. Blast through juggy overhang and spare a size 3 cam for pocket in upper head wall.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, 1 Dec 2016

Up L leaning flake, R to orange weakness through bulge, then L to seam.

Start: Start 1m R of GM.

FA: M Abbott & Newt Singh-Dodd, 1989

Slab just L of small overlap then L to arete.

Start: Start 3m R of the bumcrack.

FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989

Loose flake then lichen. Reachy.

Start: Start 1m R of F.

FA: Wayne Jensen, Gavin Jensen, Martin Bride & Greg Incoll, 1989

Start 3 metres left of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding follow first of two shallow right facing corners, step right to block and directly up to top of pedestal. Climb through small juggy rooflet above pedestal. Small good gear.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, Dec 2016

Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove.

Start: Start on the R side of the crag.

FA: Fran Holland & Al Proudfoot, 1989

Straight up the slab and clean wall about 3m right of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 30 Jan 2016

Start as for Bottoms Up, moving diagonally right and up short grey wall to alcove. Straight up nice wall above, steeply at first. Juggy steep wall to the summit (originally done as a separate, 6m, pitch).

FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 28 Jul 2016

The central groove on the grey cliff directly behind Bum Rock.

FA: Steve Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 28 Jul 2016

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