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Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 525
  • Content Quality: Medium

Seasonality

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Description

The gnarly pinnacle guarding the front of King Rat Gully.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, King Rat Gully Area

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

The order in which the routes are described is potentially confusing, because when you approach from camp you actually get to them in the opposite order. On the other hand if you're approaching from the base of 'Skydiver' Wall this ordering makes more sense.

Emergency Location: King Rat Gully Area

© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes

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Grade Route

Overhanging flake on L edge of cave, then short groove.

Start: Start L of CC.

FA: Nick White (solo), 1990

Louise's description is worth repeating in full! "Why pay a shrink to talk about your problems when you can do a new route and tell the whole world for free?"

Start: Start in the cave L of CC.

The bolts flex alarmingly and need to be replaced.

FA: Simon Mentz, Simon Carter & Richard Henderson, 1991

Routes

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Grade Route

Traverse L along break to BR. Presumably you go up at some point too.

Start: Start 2m L of CC (the original contrived start was further L in the cave).

FA: Lionel Clay & John Pawson, 1986

The steep thin crack and direct through the overhang.

Start: Start on the back face of the Pinnacle (near the R end of 'Skydiver' Wall, described in 'King Rat' Gully).

FA: Glenn Tempest & Rod Young (with illogical finish). DF by Mike Law, 1982

More like a RHV than a separate route...

Start: Start as for CC.

FA: Mike Law & Robin Miller., 1982

As for EE but span L to the jug on the prow and up the prow to finish.

Start: Start as for CC.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1989

The arete, on the R at first then on the L, with suss rock.

Start: Start R of EE.

FA: Mike Law & Yoshio Mishima, 1982

The face - take care with delicate rock.

Start: Start 1.5m R of R.

FA: Mike Law & friends, 1982

The next line of holds up the face.

Start: Start 1.5m R of DF.

FA: Robin Miller & Dave Gairns, 1982

Up to the top of the flake, R, up.

Start: Start 2m R of BC.

FA: Mike Law, Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1982

One of Araps' earliest routes.

Start: Start beneath the front face (the one facing Dec Crag).

  1. (6) Up the chimney to large ledge on the left

  2. (11) Up

FA: Mike Stone & Ian Guild, 1964

Follow Lizard Procrastination to the ledge below the final overhang. Head up and right on juggy wall to ledge on right arete. Step back left and up steep juggy crack to top.

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