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Marx Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 6
6
AU

Seasonality

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Description

Small, clean yellowish-grey wall with mostly well-protected lines in the easier grades.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

On the L side of the main gully 60m past Serious Young Lizards. 100m as the crow flies from the top of Cruxless Knickers.

Descent notes

Easy on the L (looking at the cliff).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

History

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Surely has been climbed before, happy for my work to be corrected.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Eliminate with a bouldery start between the L edge of the wall (with the yellow mini-pinnacle) and the easy crack.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 7 Aug 2019

Crack 2m R of the L edge of the wall.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019

Line 1m R of Harpo (blinkers required).

FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019

Line 1m R of Groucho.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019

Crack 1.5m R of Gummo.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019

Cracks 2m R of Zeppo, 3m L of R edge of wall.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Activity

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