Tjuringa Wall




Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kitten Wall Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit.

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

A fun little roof. The 'Pilot Error' of Kitten Wall. In a little cave below 'Cadence'

FA: Ian Anger & Terry Tremble, 1984

A sustained and technical traverse under the ceiling, starting from the lefthand end of the wall. Can be approached via 'Cadence' as well.

Start: Start at the blocky corner marking the left end of the smooth orange wall.

  1. 20m (22) Up corner to roof and traverse right with increasing difficulty to a small stance.

  2. 35m (23) Continue right with even greater difficulty to obvious break in roof. Over and up to slings or easily to rap anchor above Celluloid heroes.

FA: Cathy Blamey & Chris Shepherd (alt), 1981

1 27 45m
2 19 30m
3 12 45m

Perhaps the most preposterous traverse at the mount. done ground-up in a push. Triple rack up to #6 mandatory, ledge optional but recommended.

  1. 45m (27) Climb the entire sideways journey of Tunnel of Corgis, but instead of going up, strenuously down climb Stigmatised (the higher traverse under the roof may go?), to continue on past Celluloid Heroes, Surprise and a moist fern garden to collapse at the Bad Cheques anchor. Be aware it is not possible to safely protect the second during the down climb.

  2. 30m (19) Links into Eclipse. Up towards the roof, past Tjuringa’s DRB to a natural belay at the stance halfway up Common Knowledge.

  3. 45m (12) Psyche up for even more traversing (!!!). the final glory slab awaits. step down into the alcove (pre-order your pub meal now), then climb past In Lieu, and along the ramp to finish at the tree.

FA: Christopher Glastonbury & Chris Abernethy, 21 Oct 2021

Lovely slab leads to awkward roof.

Bolt is rusty and rock looks loose in roof.

Start: Start 3 metres right of the starting corner of Tunnel Of Corgis.

FFA: Mark Moorhead & Jim Thomas, 1981

start 7m right of Cadence. Up to the carrot, then trend right to join Stigmatised.

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 4 Jul 2021

It doesnt get much thinner than this. the direct line up the blankish slab 5m left of Celluloid Heroes. The grade is likely height dependent. A slab is on offer to the second ascensionist.

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 30 May 2021

An interesting climb which is tough for the grade. Maybe it should be 23. Although some have found double ropes are handy, a single rope works fine. Chains on top.

Start at the left-facing flake-corner halfway along the wall (sharing the start of Strangers Eliminate). Up the corner to pedestal, up to roof and L. Through the roof and follow the flake, then go straight up through the bulge that offers more than first appearances suggest.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Ian Anger (alt as 2 pitches), 1980

A good roof but rarely climbed. Apparently requires sliders, small cams may work.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

A pretty exciting wall climb which requires a good head to deal with the small wire protection and unconventional moves prior to the bolt. 1st pitch ends at a rap chain, but the 2nd pitch shouldn't be ignored.

Start: Start at the left-facing flake corner about halfway along the wall (Start of Celluloid Heroes).

  1. 27m (20) Climb crack or left wall for 4 metres and then move onto the right wall. Continue onwards with fiddly protection then bolts leading to roof. Move right beneath roof to vertical step and up to stance at higher roof.

  2. 27m (17) Traverse left under roof to tricky move and lip then more easily up.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968

A much bolder proposition to the original route. Starts right of the corner and joins the original line at the mantle (small ledge), then continue as for that route.

FA: Mike Law, 2000

Climb directly to flake on Stranger's Eliminate. Boldly up grey streak to ledge on 'Celluloid Heroes'. Up to roof then a reachy move leads to juggy flakes.

Start: Start 1 metre right of Stranger's Eliminate on face.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

Technical climbing on perfect rock. Start 5m left of Bad Cheques, just right of 'My Soul To Keep'. Up past three bolts to join Stranger's Eliminate at it's bolt. Let me know what you think of the grade and stars. I'm bad at grading.

FA: Gareth Llewellin, 2012

A daunting traverse below the huge roof on the right-hand half of 'Tjuringa Wall'. If not always great climbing, it's certainly a great experience.

Take a large cam or two. Very large cams or tubes would help but are not essential. The final pitch could be quite amusing without double ropes or the skills to back-rope with a single.

  1. 27m (20) As for Stanger's Eliminate.

  2. 35m (19) Traverse right to stance and anchor for 'Tjuringa'.

  3. 24m (20) Continue right past end of roof, drop down off lip of overhang and pull in to right. Traverse right to In Lieu's belay cave. Traverse off right.

FA: Keith Bell & Keith Lockwood, 1976

An ultra technical piece of climbing which is bold in places.

Climb 'Odd Spots' for 5metres . Place a high runner in Strangers Eliminate then reverse a move and make a rising traverse rightwards, crossing 'Bad Cheques' then joining 'Tjuringa' at its midway flake. At the flake step down a move and continue traversing right past to 2 bolts to the undercling feature, before heading straight up to join 'Tjuringa' at its first belay. This last section is bold 21 in its own right.

Double ropes are essential. Note: 50m ropes may not be long enough to lower the climber back to the ground therefore use double 60m ropes. HB 1, 'Camelot' 1, BD Hexentric 1 are essential gear.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006

Well named. The reachy start requires creativity to protect the crux above an awful landing (the block). Great climbing, with adequate protection above the small horizontal leads to the chain on Strangers Eliminate.

It is possible to place a piece in a small pocket at the start, some people consider it marginal. Graded to take into account the seriousness.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

What is life if not a gamble?

As for Tjuringa, move left at the first break. Straight up the streak until level with the Tjuringa flake. Left again into the final few metres of Bad Cheques.

One of the most outstanding routes at Arapiles. The two pitches provide two very different beasts. Pitch 1 is a runout slab ending at the roof. Pitch 2 is the roof itself, which involves powerful climbing on good holds, passing one carrot and a fixed hanger where the piton used to be. The old piton on the second pitch came out in the hands of some unsuspecting climbers and completely broke the placement when it did. Thus it was replaced with a bolt which makes it much more tame. Both grade 25 pitches are graded to take into account seriousness.

  1. 25m (25) Up the face then left and up to flake. Step right and run it out to roof (small cam in pocket). Traverse 6 metres right to rap anchor.

  2. 15m (25) Jug out roof past carrot and fixed hanger and around lip. Up wall veering right to flake then traverse steeply back left to belay in little cave.

  3. 10m (18) Through bulge and up.

FA: Tobin Sorensen & John Allen, 1979

It's hard to say which is less repeated - 'Tjuringa', 'Akakage', or this. Once you see the line, you'll know why. A massive traversing affair that starts as for 'Common Knowledge' 2nd pitch, but then keeps heading left (under Akakage) to a (hard) crux lip encounter (very old bolt) and an outrageous headwall finish.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Common Knowledge'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

One of the most significant additions to this wall in 25 years. Originally equipped back in the dark ages. Very hard wall climbing protected by a mix of trad, then bolts - but still very exciting. Starts as for 'High Mum' then when level with the large flakeline (below the notch), drop down to the left and gain 'Tjuringa Wall' proper via a heinious crux sequence past a bolt. Trend up and leftwards to the undercut horizontal and finish as for 'My Soul to Keep'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2000

This is now considered a variant first pitch to 'Common Knowledge' but it originally had a hard (grade 25), second pitch which joined 'Common Knowledge' higher up. Tha hard section of that pitch is now the start of 'Lats Have Feelings Too'. Varied climbing up to the notch, then follow the right trending overlap and surmount it - then straight up to CK belay.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982

Like its neighbours, a very rarely repeated route that drives straight through the belay of 'Common Knowledge'. 'Fantastic' position and great rock, but a ridiculously hard fingery crux that has baffled quite a few aspiring suitors. Two bolts protect the business.

FA: Masanon Hoshina, 1988

1 23 20m
2 24 15m

A great 2 pitch outing, though doing the entire route in one pitch is recommended. The dead tree has long since disappeared, so now you have to climb the wall to get off the ground! Double bolts now reside over the top, just below the summit block on its right side.

Start just right of Hi Mum! at bolt-protected wall.

  1. 20m (23) Up wall past bolt and through right-leading line to ledge. Traverse left into right-hand flake and follow this until able to climb wall to semi-hanging belay below roof. Make sure the anchor can withstand an upwards force!

  2. 15m (24) Up right-curving flake, back left to small overlap. Up headwall a few moves then traverse right, demanding with plenty of exposure, for a few metres then go up to anchor (30 metre rappel)

FA: Mark Moorhead led both pitches with Chris Shepherd & Tony Dignan seconding respectively., 1981

The all too obvious corner/crack/offwidth provides a good workout.

  1. 18m (19) Pleasant short flake-crack to ledge. Now fight your way into the bottomless slot. From the chimney, swing over the next overhang and belay in recess.

  2. 34m (17) Step out right and traverse past two old bolts. The route originally traversed off right but it's much better at second bolt to climb bulge and then flake corner above.

FA: Peter Jackson., 1965

FA: Direct finish : John Moore, Alec Campbell & Chris Dewhirst, 1966

A contrasting second pitch with good rock and protection. From the recess Step up right onto stance. up and left via incuts and slots surmounting the overlap on its left. Left past bolt then directly up. At top step left to anchors on Common Knowledge

FA: Mark Wood, Eddy Mofardin & Mars Mofardin, 2012

Right of In Lieu is an arete, and this route ascends the flake a metre right of that arete.

Up In Lieu to the ledge, then work out how to establish yourself on the flake. After the flake, go up the bulging wall above.

The smooth wall right of the 'Tynee Tips' arete past a bolt. Finishes as for the traverse of 'In Lieu'.

Solo the slab to the right of In Lieu, to arrive at the break below the carrot. A few mighty hard moves get you past the carrot, utilising the pocket.

Some have bailed after finding the carrot too hard to clip... but it turns out that isn't the crux!

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Starts off the ledge up and right of Perfect Stranger. Fingery moves past the bolt leads to good horizontals, before committing moves lead to the beckoning flake. Finish up In Lieu.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

Delicate face climbing

Start: Start 3m right of Strange Tenants

Up to Bolt, then break and on to 2nd Bolt.Up slightly right and up slab (Trad) to Rap Station for In Lieu.

FA: Joel Wilson, 2008

Not a bad traverse if you like that sort of thing. Start: Start from large block just right of Strange Tenants.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Lpouise Shepherd, 1982

Bridge up block then climb up and left to flake then big move straight up. From ledge head straight up and then right to DBB

FA: Louise, Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982

Good slabby climbing with an enjoyable finish. Start: High micro-cam to start. Step off block and pull arete onto ledge. Up slab past a bolt to headwall. Move 2m R and up.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1982

Surprisingly good wall climbing 2m R of 'Moving Out'. The initial wall (above the undercut arete of 'Moving Out' is bold but has positive holds. Take a few small cams for the first half of the route. The upper headwall is the same as for 'Moving Out'.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 21 Apr 2015

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

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