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Pinch Arete and Pebble Wall

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Seasonality

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Description

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Pinch Arete / Swing Wing Boulders

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Routes

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Grade Route

squeezed between the other two V3s. Hard start at groove drifting right up wall.

Hard start and up face left of arete.

Great moves up slopers on arete. Probably easier than V3 though.

Sit start just left of arete then traverse R) across face via some shouldery moves.

Trackside Traverse to finish up ‘10’s Dyno (right arete out).

Up the seam.

Crux pull on of ‘10’ then press left to climb left arete. Cool.

Sit start at low flake, press left to side pull and dyno to top. Right arete is out.

On the trackside of the Pinch Arete boulder. From the flake, head right to corner and up.

On the trackside of the Pinch Arete boulder. Climb the face just left of the easy crack. Contrived but somewhat fun.

Climb the high crack on the trackside of the Pinch Arete boulder.

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Activity

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